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Making the grade: How do I grade my movie poster? Free Grading guide.

Collecting original movie posters and related memorabilia is gaining popularity in the United States and worldwide. The movie memorabilia areas on eBay are among their most popular, and a recent traffic report on Amazon.com showed that movie posters and related memorabilia was their #2 most popular area (behind Pokemon).

As coin and stamp collecting matured, independent third party grading services formed whose purpose was to accurately grade and certify the authenticity of an item. Today, even sports cards and comic books now have third party grading services. Dealers and collectors in these fields report that selling a rare non-certified baseball card or comic book is becoming a nearly-impossible task. Many collectors in these hobbies seek to have their collections certified by these grading services. This certification is what creates a liquid market for "sight unseen" collectibles, with the certified grade being a sort of insurance policy or guarantee of authenticity and condition.

All of these services are based on some version of a 10-point scale. An item rated as a 10 is the highest degree of perfection, often called Mint, and an item rated as a 1 is in horrible condition, virtually worthless except for extremely rare items.

Until the introduction of our 10-point system, the movie poster marketplace suffered from a lack of a standardized system for ranking of condition. Each movie poster merchant more or less "invented" their own system, with one seller's "Fine" equal to another seller's "Condition B" and yet another's "Excellent." Lack of grading consistency among merchants is a major obstacle to growth in any hobby. Why? Because buyers feel more secure with "sight unseen" internet buying when they are familiar with a consistent grading system. New collectors in any hobby become advanced collectors through knowledge, including knowledge of terminology. Without a set of grading terms and definitions, buyers may feel confused and uncertain about the quality of items they are buying over the internet or through the mail. Confusion and uncertainty are not good for the growth of any hobby.

Our 10-point scale for rating movie posters is similar to systems already adopted in other hobbies such as coins, comic books, and sports cards. By using a set of standardized grading terms, we can ensure the growth of the movie memorabilia hobby now and in the future.

THE ART OF DESCRIPTION

When grading, one should remember the goal: to paint an accurate picture in the mind of the potential buyer of what to expect upon receipt of the item.

Of course, a picture is worth a thousand words, and a seller should always include high-quality images, but too frequently an image does not clearly show all flaws. This is when a good grading description becomes invaluable. The buyer relies on the seller's honesty and accuracy in disclosure. It is therefore incumbent upon the seller to do the best job possible.

This being said, writing grade descriptions is more of an art than a science. One can be too brief or too comprehensive, with equally bad effect. If too brief, the reader has an eerie feeling of uncertainty which causes a decision not to buy. Too much detail, and the opposite can happen: the buyer imagines the accumulation of flaws in the description of every tiny flaw and pictures an item that is in horrible shape, when actually this is not the case. Particularly in the higher grades, all flaws should be described (C8 or higher) in detail. Any obtrusive flaws should always be described, regardless of the grade.

The buyer must be satisfied with the condition of the item upon receipt. If not, the seller must be willing to give a refund to the buyer upon return of the item in the same condition as when sent.

MINT 10.0       (M 10.0)       (C10)

An extremely rare grade for all but the most recent items. Item is "as new" or in the same condition as the day it was made.

The C10 grade represents an extremely rare state of preservation and should NOT be used unless the item is absolutely perfect!

The item exhibits an amazing state of preservation with virtually no perceptible flaws of any kind, other than very minor flaws which may have occurred during the printing process.

Printing registration should be perfect. In many cases an otherwise "mint" poster may have printing flaws in the registration, or alignment, of colors causing one color to stand slightly offset from the others. This should be almost imperceptible otherwise reduce the grade to C9.

The folding/trimming process should not have resulted in any damage to the item of any kind. Sometimes a poster may have slight fold lines which occurred when the poster was put through the folding machine. If the fold line broke the ink, causing a faint white line, the item should not be graded C10.

No edge fraying or dents/impressions are allowed in this grade.

NEAR MINT 9.0       (NM 9.0)       (C9)

Item may be in "never-used" condition or may have been used in the theater, but was carefully preserved after use. The poster should appear to be in absolutely superb, unusually excellent condition. Older posters in this condition are extremely rare.

The following flaws are typical in this grade, but should be described:
  • One tiny pinhole in each corner, or a maximum of 4 pinholes
  • Slightly offset color registration
  • Very slight compression marks (indentations) from movie theater use (IE: Clamped in a display)
  • No fold wear or if fold wear is apparent it should be almost invisible. Fold lines should not be white. All original color must be present.

The following flaws are NOT acceptable in this grade:
  • Creases, except fold creases occuring at the time of manufacture
  • Tape or tape stain residue
  • Minor holes
  • Writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster
  • Foxing (light brownish spots that look almost rusty)
  • Dampness staining
  • Paint staining
  • Soiling, i.e. mildew or dustiness
  • Minor Fading
  • Minor Paper loss (very small piece missing)
  • Censor stamp/sticker
  • Border chips
  • Staple marks


VERY FINE TO NEAR MINT      (VFNM 8.5)       (C8.5)

The observer should note that all of the above variables (from the C9 description) also apply to the C8.5 grade, so we won't repeat them here. The accumulation of flaws push the item to this lower transition grade.

VERY FINE 8.0       (VF 8.0)       (C8)

Item may be in "never-used" condition or may have been used in the theater, but was carefully preserved after use.

If a C9 is almost like new, then a C8 is not as nearly perfect but still quite excellent.

Poster should be bright, supple, and clean.

An accumulation of more than two or three of the following flaws should cause the grader to assign a lower classification.

The following flaws are acceptable in this grade, but should be described:
  • Tiny pinholes, up to a total of 10
  • A border crease or corner crease, but should be a small one, and not more than one or two very small ones. Small is defined as less than one inch.
  • Slightly offset color registration
  • Very slight compression marks (indentations) from movie theater use (IE: Clamped in a display)
  • Very slight fold wear, resulting in slight color loss at the folds; but, if the fold wear is such that a distracting white line results, then the item would not qualify for a C8 rating.
  • One very small tape stain can be permitted but NO TAPE.
  • Minor tears are allowed in this grade, but they should be MINOR, meaning less than 1/2 inch or 1 cm in length, and not more than two total tears on the item. Common areas for tears on posters are at the folds, especially the interior folds where the item may have been unfolded and then refolded. This kind of minor paper separation (tear) is common and is acceptable in a C8 grade notwithstanding other extenuating circumstances.
  • Very slight edge or fold wrinkling or fraying is acceptable
  • Writing, (pencil, light pen) on the front of the poster if it is very small and in an unobtrusive area (a mustache pencilled on Bogart's face would not qualify). Window cards may have writing in the appropriate area.
  • Writing on the back of the poster which DOES NOT BLEED THROUGH is acceptable in this grade.
  • Foxing (light brownish spots that look almost rusty) must be mentioned and is permissible only if very slight.
  • Dampness staining can be permitted if it is a very small stain and is described.
  • Very slight soiling, i.e. mildew or dustiness
  • Censor stamp/sticker if it is very small and only if in an unobtrusive area of the item.
  • A small border chip can be present if it is less than 1/2 inch square and is described in detail
  • Staple marks if they are very slight and clean, not torn.
The following flaws are NOT acceptable in this grade:
  • Tape
  • Punch holes
  • Heavy writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster. The exception to this rule is window cards, which had a blank area at the top of the poster for writing show dates and which may have show dates written in heavy grease pencil and still quality for the C8 grade.
  • Heavy writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the back of the poster which bleeds through
  • Paint staining
  • Heavy soiling, or dingy dirtiness
  • Severe Fading
  • Large Paper loss (one or more large pieces missing)
  • Very large (more than 4" by 4") censor stamps or stickers
  • Multiple Border chips
  • Heavy and torn staple marks


FINE TO VERY FINE 7.0       (FVF 7.0)       (C7)

A nicely preserved item. An item in this grade has many of the same flaws as the higher C8 grade, but, because of a greater accumulation of flaws, can not be assigned the higher classification.

Whereas a C8 grade may only have two or three of the above flaws, a C7 may have 7 or 8 of them.

The following flaws are to be expected in this grade:
  • Pinholes or staple holes
  • Tape
  • Creases
  • Fold wear, resulting in slight color loss along the fold lines
  • Fold holes: one or two very small ones
  • Very minor fading
  • Heavy writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster. The exception to this rule is window cards, which had a blank area at the top of the poster for writing show dates and which may have show dates written in heavy grease pencil and still quality for the C8 grade.
  • Writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the back of the poster which may slightly bleed through
  • Minor dampness staining
  • Minor soiling
  • Paper loss (one or more pieces missing)
  • Censor stamps or stickers
  • Border chips
Please note that all of the above variables (from the C8 description) also apply to the C7 grade, so we won't repeat all of them here. Instead, we would like to make it clear to the reader that the C7 grade is a transition grade, still quite nice, but obviously used and unable to honestly be credited with the higher C8 grade because of an accumulation of flaws.

FINE 6.0       (FN 6.0)       (C6) A Window Card with the top border trimmed away should not be rated higher than C6, even if in otherwise C10 condition.

Several pinholes in each corner of the poster, from being displayed, is acceptable in this grade.Pinholes may be present in background, artwork or typography areas.

Tears in this grade should be no longer than 1 inch to 2 inches in length, and totalling not more than four tears. Minor fold tears are acceptable but should be described.

Light creasing is allowed in 1 or more of the four corners and/or along 1 or more of the four borders. Creasing may affect background, artwork or typography areas but should be described as such.

Minor writing and/or marks, i.e. (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster, is allowed in this grade, however, such writing should be described. Writing on the back of the poster, which DOES NOT BLEED THROUGH, is acceptable in this grade but once again should be described.

Posters which have been folded may have fold wear in this grade. This is acceptable, providing the wear does not significantly affect the eye appeal of the image, and has not damaged any print on the poster.

Poster should be bright and supple.

Poster should be the correct measurement for its size, and show no signs of it having been trimmed on any of its borders.

Minor edge fraying or wrinkling is allowed in this grade but should be described as such.

Minor surface paper loss is allowed in this grade if documented in the description.

The following flaws are typical in this grade, but should be documented and described:
  • Numerous, countless pinholes
  • Border creases which may extend into the image area of the poster
  • Tape or tape stain residue
  • Minor holes
  • Writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster
  • Foxing (light brownish spots that look almost rusty)
  • Dampness staining
  • Paint staining
  • Soiling, i.e. mildew or dustiness
  • Minor Fading
  • Minor Paper loss (very small piece missing)
  • Censor stamp/sticker
  • Border chips
  • Staple marks
Linen/Paper backing can improve or eliminate the faults mentioned above. Cost of restoration will depend on the skill of the restorer, as well as the number of defects that need to be repaired.

VERY GOOD TO FINE 5.0      (VGFN 5.0)      (C5)

The observer should note that all of the above variables (from the C6 description) also apply to the C5 grade, so we won't repeat them here. The accumulation of flaws push the item to this lower transition grade.

VERY GOOD 4.0      (VG 4.0)       (C4)

Poster will exhibit any or all of the following flaws, which seller may or may not describe in detail:
  • Numerous pinholes
  • Numerous creases
  • Numerous tears which should be noted
  • Heavy creasing in all four corners/four borders, as well as in the background, artwork and typography areas of the poster.
  • Writing and/or marks, in marker pen and/or biro, on the front and back of the poster
  • Writing in bigger letters/numbers, such as displaying show times and/or dates
  • Posters which will have been folded will have heavy fold wear in this grade.
  • Fold separations or tears located anywhere on the poster
  • Severe edge fraying or wrinkling
  • Several holes, of from 1 to 2 inches in diameter each
  • Pieces of tape and/or tape stain residue
  • Severe damp staining
  • Soiling or other signs of aging
  • Severe to moderate fading over most areas of the poster
  • Paper loss and/or small to medium portions of paper missing
  • Censor stamps/stickers
  • Trimmed borders
  • Brittleness of paper
The poster shows many signs of wear and tear. This grade is applied to the average used poster or lobby card.

GOOD TO VERY GOOD 3.5      (GVG 3.5)      (C3.5)

The observer should note that all of the above variables (from the C4 description) also apply to the C3.5 grade. The accumulation of flaws push the item to this lower transition grade.

GOOD 3.0       (G 3.0)      (C3)

Countless pinholes all over of the poster, from being displayed, are expected in this grade. Pinholes may be scattered around borders, background, artwork and typography areas. Some/many of these pinholes may be larger and may have been ripped/torn when the poster was removed from display.

Tears in this grade are to be expected. Tears may have caused heavy surface paper loss.

Heavy creasing in all areas of the poster is normal in this grade.

Heavy writing and/or marks, in marker pen and/or biro, on the front of the poster, is expected in this grade. Heavy writing and/or marks may be over faces/bodies of actors/actresses, and may include defacement. Heavy writing and/or marks which bleed through from the back of the poster is expected in this grade. Heavy writing in bigger letters/numbers, such as displaying show times and/or dates on the poster will be found over any background/main artwork or typography areas.

Posters which will have been folded will exhibit heavy fold wear in this grade.

Any or all of the following flaws are normal for this grade:
  • Severe fold separation, either on borders or interior fold lines (where the fold lines meet), with the separation being 2 inches or more in length. A heavy area of surface paper loss around these separations is normal.
  • Heavy edge fraying or wrinkling.
  • Holes of more than 1 inch in diameter. These holes could affect any area of the poster.
  • Pieces of tape/tape stain residue, of more than 2 inches in length. These tape/tape stain residues may affect any area of the poster.
  • Heavy foxing
  • Heavy water staining over most or all of the poster
  • Heavy paint staining over most or all of the poster
  • Heavy soiling, i.e. mildew
  • Severe fading over most or all of the poster
  • Heavy paper surface loss and/or large portions of paper missing, affecting any area of the poster.
  • Poster may have censor stamps/stickers, and these may affect any area of the poster.
  • There may be complete fold separation, along all/most of 1, or more, vertical/horizontal fold lines, causing the poster to be in 1 or more pieces.
  • Poster may have fragile, brittle paper, which may break and come apart, when opening/closing the poster. Careful handling will be needed.
  • Paper loss from borders
  • Staple marks
  • Poster may have one or all four borders trimmed


FAIR 2.0       (FR 2.0)      (C2)

An extremely worn and torn example, heavily used, not preserved.

POOR 1.0      (P 1.0)      (C1)

Item will exhibit some or all of the defects described in C2, but to a greater degree. Only the rarest of items will have any value in this grade.

What's a Mini Window Card?

Every movie poster collector knows what a window card is, but only a handful of collectors have more than a passing acquaintance with that size of movie poster known as the mini-window card. I myself had been dealing in movie posters for several years and had never knowingly seen one. Then one day at a convention in Houston, fellow nostalgia fantastic Robert Brown showed me a whole album filled with the little gems, most of them on blockbuster titles and all of them just gorgeous. Even then, I thought they were very nice, but had no desire to own one. Nevertheless, being the opportunist that I am, I kept my eyes open in case I could find one to sell or trade to Robert. To my great surprise, I couldn't turn up even one in the several months following.

So the next year at the Houston convention, I quizzed Robert extensively on the little buggers. I even traded him out of a few of his duplicates, and against my better judgment, I bought a couple of them. I was hooked! I determined right then and there to collect as many different ones as I could, and more importantly, to get at least one more than Robert had, even if he got more. It has taken 12 years and many dollars, but that day has finally arrived. The actual numbers are academic because Robert has not counted his lately, but we both agreed at the Dallas Big D show in July that we have about the same number. We are each closing in on 300 different. Whether I have more than Robert or not doesn't seem to matter any more because I know I am within striking distance. It's more important now to see if I can get to the big three-oh-oh.

What is it about these midget cards, smaller even than lobby cards, that attracts and enchants the few of us who collect them for their own sake? I wish I knew. This article, besides telling you all you ever wanted to know about mini-window cards but were afraid to ask, will also be an attempt to answer this question.

The difficulty of capturing the essence of these little creatures shows itself even in a rudimentary description of them. For example, they can be anywhere from 8 1/2 x 11 inches to 8 1/2 x 14 inches, depending on the artwork and on whether or not the theater imprint has been trimmed off the top. The artwork of all of the early Columbias and First Nationals, most of the Warner Bros. and MGM's, and some of the RKO's and Paramounts, exceeds 11", leaving very little room at the top for the theater imprint. The artists at Universal, Fox and Twentieth Century-Fox hardly ever went over the 11" mark, and RKO and Paramount only rarely did.

Mini-window cards can be found then in four different ways: 8 1/2 x 14 untrimmed with or without theater imprint, 8 1/2 x 14 untrimmed with one or more imprints pasted or stapled over a blank or earlier imprint, and trimmed to any size down to 8 1/2 x 11. I personally prefer them untrimmed in good shape with a theater imprint, although there is probably little difference in value for any of the ways they are found. More about imprints later.

The paper stock these cards are printed on is also a complicating factor. In general, for example, when Warner Bros. printed the lobby cards for a movie on linen stock, the mini-window card was done the same way. Same for early Columbias and their coated stock. They were all printed on a slightly smaller weight paper than the lobby cards (nowhere near as thick as a regular window card).

One real mystery has developed which I hope to shed some light on here. There are two different mini-window cards for The Adventures of Robin Hood -- one flat and one on a linen-like paper. I have seen both, and I don't really know why there is such a discrepancy. This anomaly may also involve other Warner Bros. films, but none has yet come to light. At first, I thought it was an "other company" piece, but I ruled this out because the artwork is identical. Besides, I know of no "other company" mini-window cards. Of course, since all the lobby cards I have seen are on linen paper, the flat mini-window cards from this title could be counterfeit, but this is not likely. More probably, the flat one was either a purposeful experiment or a mistake. Some of the mini-window cards somehow got printed on flat paper instead of linen. The only other explanation I can think of, which has been advanced by at least two collectors, is that the flat one is a same year reissue. My own theory is that the flat ones were not a reissue but a second printing, and that the printer had temporarily run out of linen stock.

There are only two characteristics of mini-window cards that are not controversial. They are always printed on the vertical, like an insert, and they were hardly ever reissued. In fact, I know of only one reissue mini-window card--the 1939 reissue of All Quiet on the Western Front. Moreover, this one may have been reissued because when the movie first came out in 1930, there were no mini-window cards.

This brings me to my next point. When were they made? It seems that they came in with the talkies and were killed by the returning World War II soldiers and sailors. More likely, they were determined to be useful when the neighborhood concept materialized early in the Great Depression and they disappeared along with the bulk of the neighborhood candy and cigar stores and cafes after the war as people moved to the newly-built suburbs. They also could have succumbed to the paper drives during the war, and as the smallest poster size, were just never revived.

At any rate, my earliest card is dated 1932 and my latest one is 1947, and I have not seen any dated earlier or later. In a study of the 276 different that I own, which is probably a pretty representative sampling of those remaining, they average between 13 and 22 different for each year from 1932 until 1937, when I have no less than 38. I have 22 dated 1938, and 43 for that glorious year 1939. There are 20 for each of the next two years, and then they taper off gradually until 1947. What I know of Robert's cards bears out these statistics. While there is some overlap, the percentages are similar. The obvious, although unscientific conclusion, is that they were used steadily until the war began, and then, like nearly everything else during the war, they were gradually put on the back burner.

A breakdown of my cards by major studios yields interesting results also. The first and last years for each one follows: Universal....1935-44
Paramount....1932-40
Fox/20th.....1932-44
RKO..........1932-40
Columbia.....1932-42
MGM..........1933-43
Warner Bros..1933-47


As can be easily seen, if this chart is accurate (and Robert's cards change these statistics only slightly and on the later end), it probably rules out both a Dracula and Frankenstein mini-window card, but does not preclude one for each of the many sequels and similar films through 1944. Moreover, there is a good probability of the existence of a King Kong mini-window card. Indeed, I have seen the pressbook, and there is a picture of one there. Whether any were ordered by a theater or a poster exchange is another question, however, and whether any were printed is even more tenuous.

Of even greater importance to many collectors is the likely non-existence of any silent mini-window cards or any of the great talkies before 1932 or those wonderful RKO film noir pictures from 1941 on (including Citizen Kane). Apparently, neither Paramount nor RKO had mini-windows printer after 1940. Sadly, it seems that Universal did not start using them until 1935, and then, along with Fox, Columbia, and MGM, the studio bowed to the wartime paper conservation. Warner Bros. was the only studio whose mini-window cards can be found from the beginning to the end of the run. I wonder if they knew that they were designing the last midget cards. Finally, the four poverty row studio mini-window cards I have (three World Wide/Tiffany cards and one Mascot serial card) date from the early 1930s. Alas, no Republic or Monogram mini-window cards have been reported, and very few cards of serials exist. Similarly, none of the great Disney or Fleischer studios cartoons were captured in the mini-window format.

As you would imagine, Warner Bros. mini-window cards are the most common, but Paramount runs a close second. This is surprising, since Paramount did not have a single mini-window card printed after 1940. Next down the line are MGM, Twentieth Century-Fox, and Universal in that order, with around the same numbers surviving (about two-thirds as many). Then comes Columbia, RKO, and Fox before the merger with Twentieth Century (about one-fourth of the surviving titles). Finally, with only two to four known are Tiffany/World Wide and Mascot. These figures include both blockbuster titles and non-star titles, because I relentlessly pursue any title I don't have.

My goal is to have one untrimmed mini-window card for every picture they were made for. As you can guess, this disease will be terminal. By the way, for the purposes of this survey, First Nationals were combined with Warner Bros., and Cosmopolitans were counted as either MGM or Warner Bros., as appropriate. Finally, Fox and Twentieth Century-Fox were arbitrarily kept separate.

Common sense would tell you that these tiny gems were used in tiny places, and your logic has not failed you. Like regular window cards, which were used in grocery stores and banks and other large outside store windows to advertise the movie at the local theater, mini-window cards were used in a similar way. They were mostly placed in glass cases inside the store by the cash register in such establishments as cafes, drug stores, cigar stores candy stores, and the like--usually taped inside the case facing out.

This fact alone accounts for the wholesale decimation of the mini-window card population, regardless of the print run, because these places tended to be mainly frequented by people from the neighborhood who would want to know what was playing down the street Tuesday and Wednesday at the Roxy. In fact, they might have no other way of knowing unless they happened to pass the theater and check the marquee. And if the star on the card happened to be a favorite of a good customer, the proprietor of the store would gladly give the poster to him to keep his business. Besides, it didn't cost him anything. Then, when the theater manager came to collect the mini-window card to send back to the poster exchange, if the shopowner had given it away, it wasn't any big deal because it only cost him three cents. You have to come to the conclusion that the very nature of their use contributed to the eventual destruction of thousands of these posters.

Another contributing factor to the small number of mini-window cards remaining was the subsequent treatment of them by theater poster exchange, movie memorabilia dealers, and even collectors. I heard one horror story of a poster exchange folding them in half and using them as alphabetical markers for one-sheets and lobby cards! Again, probably because of their size, their low cost, and their general flimsiness, theater managers and poster exchange operators tended to give or throw them away. Alas, mini-window cards became victims of their own beauty and economy. Similarly, they were largely ignored or treated as step-children by poster dealers who obviously thought that they would not be wanted by any serious collector. Collectors themselves unknowingly continued the destructive process by buying or trading for them only as fillers until they could get a larger piece on that particular film. Moreover, while a particular size of poster is even today typically in an upswing or a downswing of a cycle, mini-window cards have been since their inception on a perpetual downswing, never reaching anywhere near the popularity of first one-sheets, then lobby cards, and now three-sheets and foreign posters. Finally, there never were very many of them in the first place. There is no way, of course, to get an accurate print run, but an educated guess based on discussions with several collectors puts it at from 100 to no more than 500 for each title. Allowing for all of the destructive possibilities described above, there are probably only from zero to 20 remaining today for any one title. Exceedingly rare, to say the least.

When I first started collecting these midget jewels, I was amazed when I would go up to a big dealer from New York or California and ask him if he had any mini-window cards, and he would say, "What?" When I would describe them further, he would invariably answer, "Oh. No, I never see those." On the other hand, when I would approach a dealer from the middle West or the Southwest, I would often find one or two, or at least not have to describe them to him. Moreover, as I began noting theater imprints, I found them proclaiming such grand movie houses as the Kozy Theater--Granite, Oklahoma or the Orpheum--Lancaster, Wisconsin or the Deluxe--Spearville, Kansas or my personal favorite--the Empress Theater in Waurika, Oklahoma. I soon discovered that the vast majority of the surviving imprints came from the middle part of the country, and not from the two coasts or Chicago, as you might expect. In fact, I have found only one from the West Coast and none from the East. The Nifty Theater in Waterville, Washington is the lone coastal imprint.

It is my conclusion that most mini-window cards were ordered by small-town theaters in America's heartland, where there was only one theater per town. The rest, a small minority, were sent to neighborhood theaters in larger cities, but have since been lost through the processes described above. Another reason for their prevalence in the Southwest (and Oklahoma especially) may have been because the Smith Brothers, who operated a theater poster exchange in Canton, Oklahoma for many years, liked them and kept them (or sold them to Robert in Oklahoma City).

Incidentally, there is yet one more anomaly regarding mini-window cards. Many pressbooks will have a picture of one, but this is no guarantee that it was ever ordered or even printed. Furthermore, even though they may have been printed and used, there is no guarantee that any still exist today. Conversely, even though the pressbook may not list it, it may still exist. Some pressbooks were not very elaborate, and others may not be complete, either missing a page or not taking the trouble to have a photo of such a small, insignificant piece. At any rate, the pressbook should not be used as a bible; it is not infallible.

What films were midget cards produced for? Robert Brown says all of them within the years noted above for each studio, but that seems impossible. That would mean thousands and thousands of cards have been lost with no trace, since there are less than a thousand known titles. It seems more likely that there was some systematic way of deciding which movies needed them and which didn't. This is probably the most exasperating and unanswerable question of all.

Something needs to be said about the artwork itself. It should be remembered the mini-window cards were posters, not scenes from the film. They were designed, like the other posters, to get people to see the movie. Sometimes they were exact reductions of the one-sheet, and sometimes they were very similar to it, with minor color variations or rearrangements of the elements. Often they were completely different from all the other posters in the ad campaign. There is not much consistency, even within one studio, although Twentieth Century-Fox favored drawings rather than photos, and almost always simply reduced the one-sheet. Although each studio eventually developed a distinctive look, at any given period during the life of the genre, it could have drawings only, with no stars, or drawings with stars, photos only, or any combination of these. The only consistent thread running through 99% of them is that they are knockouts--even the non-name titles, but especially the linen cards. they all have fresh colors, no folds, and with the imprints, they are brimming with history. In a word, they are simply beautiful.

Finally, a little bit about pricing. First, there's the interminable argument about trimmed vs. untrimmed. My preferences having already been demonstrated, a slight premium is not inappropriate for an untrimmed mini-window card. Having said that, I realize I might have just cost myself several hundred dollars, but I have to be honest. Untrimmed cards are just more attractive. The final judgment remains, however, between the buyer and the seller, and it will always be so. Regarding price as related to one-sheets, lobby cards, etc., my opinion is that they should be priced about the same as, or a little more than, a title card. I've discussed this at length with many collectors and dealers, and the range has been surprisingly small. To a man, we agree that they are probably worth not less than the value of a scene card and not more than an insert form the same movie. From here on--caveat emptor!

Before I close, I would like to thank several people specifically for things they have done for me during my quest for these posters--Robert Brown for getting me started and for keeping me going during the lean years; Gene Andrewski for first calling attention to their importance in the early days and for being one of the first real collectors; Steve Sallye for finding me my only serial card and for pointing me to midget cards at shows; Jon Warren for selling me a lot of early Paramounts at a reasonable price and for giving me the opportunity to finally get these thoughts down on paper; Lee Brinsmead for trading me a nice lot of cards and for being an all-around good guy about letting me have first shot at any he gets; Gary Vaughn, who kept Saratoga for me until I could get it back and who brokered the deal that lost Casablanca but got so many great others; and mostly Gene Arnold, who sold me the absolute best one in my collection and who still saves them all for me until he sees me; and all the other good guys who do the same. You know who you are. Thanks.

In conclusion, let me make the standard disclaimer. This article was written by picking the brains of several collectors and dealers, pooling all our ideas, and, using the information collected, coming to what I hope are logical conclusions. The information here was not gleaned from any written source, because I couldn't find anything on them; the conclusions are my own, and I take full responsibility for them.

What's a Movie Poster? An Introduction to Collecting Movie Posters

Filmmakers have advertised their films by every means conceivable since the first producer decided to splice his footage together, load it onto a projector, set up a screen and some chairs, and sell tickets. Film trailers, handbills, heralds, radio and TV spots, sneak previews and the revered publicity stunts of the great showmen of the past have all played a role in getting the attention of the public when a film needed selling. But for film fans all over the world, one area of film advertising remains specially connected to the heart of filmmaking: the movie poster.

Posters go back to the beginning of movie exhibition a century ago. The evolution of advertising using posters was inevitable; in the previous century almost anything you could buy had been advertised on posters. Posters were colorful and they were ubiquitous. They were cheap to produce and they really grabbed one's attention. So it was natural that filmmakers would turn to posters as a means of arousing curiosity. The modern one sheet posters of today, offset printed on translucent "lightbox" paper, fulfill exactly the same function as did the stone lithographs which announced exhibitions of cinema by Lumiere and Edison. By the exploitation and juxtaposition of image, text, and color they attract the public's attention and invite people to reach for their wallets at the boxoffice.

But aside from this primary function, film posters have another quality. They are at once mementos, memorabilia if you will, of the experience of attending a film. In this they are artifacts of our culture. The poster that you see at the cineplex for a film like Jurassic Park or Howard's End could have the same nostalgic appeal in fifty years that a poster for The Wizard of Oz or It Happened One Night has for us today. It's hard to say for sure. The possibility that it might is part of the charm and allure of collecting.

The ability to see something special in a poster is the hallmark of a talented collector. A collector may have great posters and yet have a lackluster collection. Collections with verve are amassed by collectors with vision. This is true with all collectibles, and it is equally true with film posters. Happily, this is what makes collecting fun. Not everyone can own an original 1933 King Kong one sheet. Not everyone has the money, but even if they did they still couldn't because only a few are known to exist. But anyone interested in movie posters can have a wonderful collection. That is to say, a collection filled with wonders.

Poster Sizes

Movie posters were made in certain specific sizes, sometimes in multiple styles (different posters in the same size), to be used in different situations. The most common size, the one sheet poster, measuring 27 inches wide by 41 inches high, is today triumphant over the other sizes which are, for the most part, no longer manufactured. The one sheet poster is what one sees when attending a theater today.

But in the past, as recently as the 1970s and 1980s, posters were made in several configurations. Classically, from the smallest to the largest, posters were produced in the following sizes:

Publicity Stills

publicity still
Usually 8 inches by 10 inches, stills are glossy black and white or sometimes color photographs produced on the set of a film by the film's still photographer. They are not, strictly speaking, a poster, although at movie houses they might be displayed in groups like lobby cards. They are not, usually, strict frames from a film enlarged onto a photograph although in some rare cases they may be. They are tableau or scenes from the film set up and photographed in such a way as to look as if they are lifted from the film. In the old days the film's still photographers used 4x5 cameras that would create razor sharp stills for better newspaper reproduction. Sometimes producers would lithograph (print) color still sets in 8x10 format for use at the theater location for display. These are called still sets, and they are sometimes numbered like lobby card sets. But the garden variety black and white still is the copper penny of movie posterdom. Normally in the bottom border are printed title, production and copyright information. There were billions of these produced worldwide. Sometimes stills were produced in 11 by 14 inch formats - oversized stills. (The most regal type of still are the glamourous stills produced by smart photographers like George Hurrell which are generally elegant photographs of the stars. These are quite valuable and are not to be confused with normal production stills. They are often embossed with the photographer's imprimatur.) Generally you find them in shops where you can look through the inventories in a self-serve situation. Or you may see them at poster and movie conventions around the world.

Lobby Cards

lobby card

These are 11 inch by 14 inch posters printed on card stock. They are generally printed in sets of eight different cards, but not always. Each set will consist of one (usually) title card and several scene cards. The scene cards are so called because a black and white still, a scene from the movie, is generally hand tinted and reproduced in color on the card. The card is embellished with other art, text and design and each scene card will have a same or perhaps similar design with a different still used.

The title card is like a small poster with the title and credits of the film setting it apart from the other cards. In later years, generally the late sixties and after, true color photography was used in the creation of scene cards. Lobby card collecting is one of the most varied and interesting areas in the hobby because of the endless variety of cards and the varying quality of the images used. Generally the more pertinent, memorable and central the image on the scene card is, the more valued the card is. The term dead card refers to a card that lacks the more interesting or compelling aspects of the film - either stars or subjects missing from the scene portrayed. For example, a scene card from an obscure Bela Lugosi film in which Lugosi, the chief element of interest, is not portrayed, or a card from a Marx Brothers film without any of the brothers pictured. Individual scene cards from many films have a number printed in or near the border area. Some films have no title card in the set. Sometimes there may be only four cards in a set or sometimes more than eight cards in the set. Most lobby card sets have been broken up over years of collecting, so finding a complete set is increasingly difficult. Complete sets often came in paper bags with the name and studio information printed on the bag. The presence of the bag with the set is very unusual today. Very occasionally, two different lobby sets may exist for the same film.

Jumbo lobby cards, measuring 14" by 17", are another type of lobby card. They can be vertically or horizontally oriented. Jumbo lobby cards were produced from the silent era through the early 1940s. They are scarcer than standard lobby cards.

Window Cards

window card

The window card is a poster which is 14 inches by 22 inches. It is one of the easiest sizes to handle and economical to frame because an oversized piece of glass is not required in the framing process. It, too, is printed on a card stock. Window cards were designed chiefly for off-premises advertising. Thus, they were often seen in the window of the barber shop, the butcher shop, the dime store, ect. - advertising a film that was playing at a local theater. A blank area was left at the top of the poster; in this space the exhibitors could print the theater locale and playdates. Of course, many window cards survive with these imprintations. Some collectors prefer to find a copy of a window card with nothing printed on it, but other people, myself included, find that playdate printings can add an individual character to a poster. Some window cards have had this area trimmed from the poster. Trimming a poster devalues a poster and is always a bad idea; but finding a trimmed window card on a rare title is OK. Given the choice between a trimmed window card and a complete one, whether printed or not, the untrimmed care will have a wider collector's appeal because it is complete. The mini window card (8 inches by 14 inches) is a smaller incarnation of the window card. These were not made for every film, and while they can be quite desirable, they are relatively scarce. Likewise, the jumbo window card (22 inches wide by 28 inches high) is a larger version of the window card.

Insert

insert Sometimes called insert cards, they are printed on a heavier card stock. This poster has a vertical format, 36 inches high by 14 inches wide. This poster, because of its vertical format will fit, when framed, in an area where other posters won't fit. And inserts can be very beautiful. Inserts can utilize painting in their design, but some of the most affecting designs are photographic. Inserts which have never been folded may be referred to as flat or rolled. These rolled posters preferred to one that has been folded. But an insert that has been folded should not be turned down if the design is good and other areas of condition are satisfactory. A trip to the restorer can brighten any poster and folds can be minimized.

Half Sheet

Half sheet posters. Also printed on card stock, the half sheet is sometimes called a display. It is more often called a 22 by 28 referring to its dimensions - 22 inches high by 28 inches wide. These dimensions give the poster one of its greatest elements of appeal: a convenient size with a horizontal orientation that is easy on the eyes in a smaller room. Like the insert, both painted art and photographic designs are found. Framing is usually reasonable because again, no oversized piece of glass is required. And, once again, rolled or flat posters and folded ones are also found.

One sheet posters. The most popular poster size is arguably the one sheet. One sheets are 41 inches high by 27 inches wide. They are printed on paper stocks which can vary widely in quality from beautiful enamel stocks to the cheapest newspulp. One sheets can utilize art or photographic elements. One sheets are printed now by offset photolithography, a process by which original art which is used to make the poster is photographed and a printing plate is made from the film. But in the first half of this century, older posters may have been printed by lithographic techniques utilizing stone or zinc plates. These posters are referred to as stone lithographs and this printing technique, now largely confined to fine art editions, was once used commercially to produce all types of posters. Stone lithography stopped altogether in the early 1950s, as photo offset printing, being cheaper and faster, dominated. But stone lithographic one sheets (as well as three and six and even twenty four sheets) have become the rosetta stones of many collections. Ask a collector or dealer to show you the difference between these two kinds of printing methods and you will understand why collectors ooh and aah over stone lithos. The one sheet is, for the most part, the smallest poster which can be a stone lithograph. This, as much as anything else, has accounted for its popularity. But it also must be said this has been historically the poster which, through the decades, has been used by the exhibitors more than any other poster. It is virtually the only size used today by all exhibitors in all parts of the country. It's importance in recent times in the minds of collectors has been shaped by it's preeminence as the favored size for inclusion in auctions. Great posters are not defined by their dimensions alone but rather by their design overall. There are wonderful designs in every size.

30 x 40 and 40 x 60 inch posters. These posters are printed on card stock, generally, and are somewhat scarcer to find than the smaller posters. I have seen them folded, but usually they were stored flat or rolled. Because they are bulky, and because they were not used for every film, fewer of them are seen. Both sizes are oriented verticaly, so that the longer dimension is the height of the poster. Sometimes multiple styles may exist in these sizes. Most of these posters that I have seen have been offset photolithography, but I have also seen silkscreened examples and they can be very interesting. Like all larger posters, framing is more expensive because of the oversized glass or plexiglass that is required, more running feet of frame, etc. Homemade frames begin to look very cost effective for larger posters.

Three Sheet. The three sheet poster is printed on paper stock and is three times larger, in square inches, than a one sheet. Its dimensions are 41 inches wide by 81 inches high. So, like an insert poster, it has a long, vertical orientation. It may be printed by offset photolithography or by stone lithography. Three sheets are generally scarcer than smaller posters on the same title. Because it is large, preparation of the poster for display is more expensive than for a smaller poster. But if you have the space to display one, or even it you are simply in love with larger posters, three sheets are wonderful. They may simply show a larger image of the same art as is found on one or more of the smaller posters on a title, or they may offer an image that is different altogether from any other poster. The most successful three sheets are ones which are designed to best utilize the vertical scheme.

Six sheet. The six sheet poster is six times larger, in square inches, than a one sheet and twice as large as a three sheet. Normally a six sheet measures 81 inches wide by 81 inches high: the only movie poster that is a perfect square. I have been six sheets that were slightly larger and slightly smaller than these dimensions but these are unusual. By any definition this poster is BIG. Three and six sheets were usually used in the big, downtown movie palaces, and, to me, they are especially evocative of the golden area of movie exhibition. The six sheet is scarcer in general, than, say a three sheet on the same title. This is so because fewer sixes than threes, and threes than ones etc., were manufactured to begin with. And because larger posters were often dismissed as "too big" by collectors in the early years, they were often discarded or treated casually, further reducing their numbers. Six sheets may be offset photolithography or they may be stone lithos; they are printed on paper stocks. They are even more expensive to prepare for display than a three sheet. When they are good, however they can be very impressive indeed. Obviously, they can be very impressive in a larger room.

Twenty four sheet. The twenty four sheet was used as an outdoor billboard. They are sometimes called poster panels. Twenty four sheets can vary in size, but most of the ones I have encountered are about 20 feet wide by 9 feet high. These posters are scarce with few exceptions. They are normally the scarcest poster on any title; on many titles no twenty four sheets are known to exist. This can be true for any size poster on a particular title. No one can say why, for some titles, no known posters exist in a given size, or, indeed, at all. But it is known that twenty four sheets were intended to be used in the initial, first-run release of a film. A billboard space had to be rented from an advertising display company. Usually the budget for this existed only in the first-run of a movie. Once a film had moved to the neighborhood theatres, twenty four sheets were seldom called for. Twenty four sheets were the only posters that were routinely destroyed when they were used. Most posters were used by the exhibitors and then returned to the exchanges from which they had been leased. A twenty four sheet was purchased by the exhibitor, pasted up, displayed, and pasted over with another billboard as soon as the advertising contract expired. When a film was out of first run distribution and the personnel at the film poster exchanges felt certain billboards would not be called for again, the surplus copies were discarded. They were bulky and took up valuable space. So relatively few survived. This is what has been explained to me by people who worked in this business over the years. Who collects these behemoth posters? Completist collectors who are looking for every poster on a particular film, dealers who are interested in selling to completist collectors, and the occasional collector who sees a magnificent twenty four sheet and has to have it. There have been some memorable examples of twenty four sheets which have commanded big prices at auction and through private sales. When they are good, they are spectacular.

Pressbooks. Pressbooks are not posters. They are called pressbooks for short, but they are called Exhibitor's Campaign Manuals. They were produced by the studios and distributed to the exhibitors to help them market the film in their area. The pressbook contained articles, targeted at the local newspapers, with information and publicity about the film and its stars. These were often regurgitated by local writers or simply lifted intact and published. The pressbook contained ad mats, ideas for marketing schemes, product tie-ins, and, most importantly for contemporary poster collectors, examples of the posters and other campaign items intended for the exhibitors. Pressbooks are themselves collected today. They are most valued when they are completely intact and nothing has been cut from them. The pressbook will usually show every poster produced for a film; of course there are exceptions to this. The pressbook will show special items and special size posters at times.

Special sizes. Occasionally, special posters were produced in various sizes, such as silk or paper banners, or subway posters. Other special posters include door panels and free standing poster displays called lobby standees. No one knows all of what was made for each film because different items were made for distribution to different localities.

Roadshow Posters Roadshow (or limited engagement) films often had posters which were printed and distributed outside of the normal National Screen Service channels. 1952 to 1967 was the heyday of reserved seat engagements of such popular films as This Is Cinerama, Around The World In Eighty Days, Oklahoma!, Ben Hur, Spartacus, Cleopatra, My Fair Lady, and The Sound Of Music, to name but just a few. These special roadshow posters are becoming increasingly collected and are sometimes considered the best posters on these titles.

Foreign Posters

Movie posters were manufactured and distributed in England, France, Belgium, Italy, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Spain, Austria, Poland, Russia, Argentina, Mexico, Japan, China, India, Australia, and other countries. Each country produced posters for both original films from these countries and films imported from other countries. If you consider this for a moment, you begin to get an idea of the permutations of posters for any given film: a Belgian poster for an Italian film, a French poster for an American film, an Australian poster for an American film, an American poster for a British film, and so on. And each country produced its own particular poster sizes. To complicate matters further, there are original and reissue posters in foreign posters just as in U.S. posters, often without identifying marks to indicate whether the poster is original or reissue.

Obviously, developing a working knowledge of foreign posters is one of the difficult challenges of poster collecting. Yet, more American collectors are discovering that foreign posters can be wonderful. More and more foreign posters are being offered at auction and by dealers. Some dealers in the U.S. have specialized in foreign posters. Certainly these dealers are knowledgeable and their expertise is valuable. And there are a host of dealers overseas who sell to clients in the U.S. The movie poster hobby is strong overseas as well, especially in England and Europe, where there are numerous poster auctions.

Certainly the French, Italian, and Belgian posters represent the mainstay of foreign posters that we see in the U.S. Since the collapse of the Eastern Bloc, posters from Poland, quite remarkable in many ways, have made their way into the U.S. Several years ago a huge influx of posters from Argentina were discovered, and many have found their way into the U.S. market. British posters, especially rare from the pre-War years, are gradually finding their way into the U.S.

For more information about foreign posters, try to find the books by Stanisla Chocko and Jean-Louis Capitaine.

One thing worth noting about foreign posters is the interest that foreign poster collectors have in the artists that designed the posters. This contrasts with posters in the U.S., where posters were usually designed by unknown studio workers whose work has gone largely uncredited. The poster artist is often ignored in the U.S., with the exception of posters designed by famous U.S. illustrators such as Rockwell, Vargas, Bass, Hirschfeld, Frazetta, and others. Not so in Europe, where a long tradition of posterization since the time of Toulouse-Lautrec and others have created an awareness of the artists that created the posters. This is a fascinating and worthwhile apsect of foreign poster collecting. Names like Mascii, Roger Soubie, Lenica, Peron, Ballester, and many others are associated with great poster design. Some collectors will collect posters simply for the artist’s work, without an interest in the film whatsoever.

Finally, remember that foreign posters will have titles that are not in English. So Captain Blood becomes Capitaine Blood in France as Les Enfants du Paradis becomes Children Of Paradise in the U.S. Yet, somehow Casablanca is known universally as Casablanca.

Condition

Questions of condition are basic to movie poster collecting. People describe condition differently. I'm not going to try to define these labels like "very fine", "good", "near mint" etc. The fact is: What is very fine to one person may be only very good to another. A poster described casually as being in good condition may be very fine to you. The best way to assure that the poster is in the condition you require is to see it. The second best way to deal with someone who has a reputation for being fair. A fair person knows that condition is a factor. Ask the person to describe a poster to you in detail. Is there any paper loss? Are there any tears or fold separations? Are there stains or watermarks? Are there any marks or writing or imprintations on the poster? Is it brittle? This is the way to assure getting a poster in a condition that you can live with NOT mincing words about very fine, excellent, very good, near mint, fair, poor etc. If you order a poster mail order you should be able to return it if the condition doesn't satisfy you. Period. If the seller says he won't tolerate a return, you have no one but yourself to blame if you don't like the condition of a poster when you get it mail order. Many fears about condition can be avoided altogether by simply dealing with someone who understands your requirements and offers you full money back satisfaction.

Restoration

An entire article could be written about poster restoration. Restoration is the attempt to upgrade and improve the appearance of a poster through paper conservancy techniques. A good paper conservator is a skilled worker, an artisan. He attempts to extend the life of a poster by washing and removing acids and pollutants from the paper, strengthening and improving the appearance of the paper through special mounting techniques, and, if needed, cosmetizing defects in a poster by overpainting areas which may be missing.

Restoration can improve the looks of most posters, but there are limits to what can be achieved. If a poster has a hole in it, it has a hole in it. You can cosmetize that defect, but no true restoration here is possible. But if a poster has border tears, separations, or holes where the paper has been bent back, so that, in effect, there is a semicircular tear, a restoration is possible. There are some great posters of which the only known copy or copies are restorations. Thus, there is a legitimate time and place for restoration. But, restoration is costly and so restoring a poster must be cost effective to be considered. A word of warning: not everyone who says he does restoration is necessarily good at it. You get what you pay for, and fees for restoration can run from the bargain basement to very, very expensive. Never entrust a valuable poster to anyone for restoration unless you have made an effort to find out whether the restorer knows what they are doing. Undoing a bad restoration is triply expensive and sometimes impossible. Get some knowledge yourself and get a good recommendation. Here again, knowing a reliable dealer can help.

Notes on scarcity

Movie posters were never intended for distribution to the general public. They were intended to go to the exhibitors where the general public would see them and be moved to see the films they advertised. That's all. Their desirability as collector's items has ever been enhanced by this one simple fact: they were not printed and sold to the public at large. Unlike many other areas of paper collectibles which were originally intended for mass consumption, movie posters were not. Whatever the printrun for any poster on a given film may have been, it is certain that the printrun was small compared with what they might have been had they been destined for the public at large.

Exactly how many one sheets? How many three sheets, etc? Impossible to say, with absolute accuracy. This would have varied with the film and its anticipated distribution. In general, there were fewer of the larger posters printed than smaller ones. (This gives birth to the theory that a three sheet should be worth so many times the value of a one sheet, and a six sheet twice the value of a three sheet, etc. This is a theory to which I do not personally subscribe - certainly not in every case. You may take this into account, but I think we must look more to the merits of a given poster in a given size to determine it's desirability. Not merely it's size and not it's scarcity. Factors such as these will contribute to driving the desirability and value (and thus the price) of a poster, but not determine them.) Printruns for every size poster were, indeed, limited. A specified number of posters in each size were ordered to be printed for the exchanges when a film was readied for its initial release. Rarely were posters reprinted unless a film was re-issued.

Originals, re-issues, reproductions, fakes

A poster is said to be an original poster for a film when it is known to have been printed and distributed concurrent with the first release of the film. A poster will often have a National Screen Service service number in the right (usually) bottom border area of the poster. Such a number might read, for example, 57-128. This configuration of numbers means that the poster was made for distribution in the year 1957 and that in that year said poster was for the 128th film that NSS had serviced for the studios. A poster which has a number configured like this may reasonably be construed to be an original poster from a film released in the year 1957, although rarely you will find films copyrighted in the year previous or following the year on the poster screen service number. Keep in mind that these numbers were not invented for the convenience of poster collectors but to assist in the day to day operations of what was a working business. So this numbering system may be regarded as generally correct, but not absolutely correct. Some posters may have no date at all printed on them. If you are concerned about the originality of a poster and there is no date, remember a pressbook for the film will probably show the poster, if you can find one. Or ask for the advice of a dealer or a trusted collector.

Films which were thought to have residual life in them at the box office were sometimes re-released by the studios years after their first release. Certain films were re-released or re-issued several times. Posters for films which were re-released were printed and they are referred to as re-issue posters. These re-issue posters are real movie posters in every sense, but they are simply made for the re-release, not original release of a film. They were usually marked with a "R" in the lower border area near the National Screen Service service number. For example, a re-issue poster for West Wide Story, re-released in 1968 will have R68 on the poster. These posters may have used the same designs as the original posters or entirely new ones, but the “R” designation indicates that the poster was intended for a film that was being re-released. That is why such posters will sometimes have copy to the effect that the film may be enjoyed again and again, or will, in some way clue the public that the film is not a new one. This was essentially a truth in advertising technique; after all, films were as ubiquitous as TV programs and the established producers did not want to be seen as passing off old films as new ones to an unsuspecting public.

A re-issue poster is not to be confused with a reproduction poster. A reproduction poster is merely a reproduction of a real poster, usually an original. Some movie posters have been reproduced by poster manufacturers for mass marketing. A poster producer merely takes a photograph of an old poster and reproduces it on poster stock. Several reproductions of posters from the thirties were done in the big nostalgia crazes of the sixties and seventies. These reproduction posters are not now all that common, and they usually are of films like The Wizard of Oz or Casablanca, where there is a mass market appeal. Reproduction posters rarely adhere to the standard movie poster sizes and their offsize nature and the presence of the name of the poster printer, such as Portal Publications, etc., will be easy clues that the poster is a reproduction. Of the tens of thousands of films made in the twentieth century, only small few have ever had their posters reproduced for mass marketing. There have been and are a few companies that have printed high grade photographic reproductions of lobby cards and posters, but these concerns advertise their products as such, and collectors will have little trouble in mistaking these posters for the real thing. Very occasionally printers may have been given access to the original plates for a poster but his is rare.

Forgeries and counterfeits are not unknown, but the incidents of this are, in my opinion, uncommon enough not to present a significant worry. Where there is money there can also be chicanery. Beware of what is too good to be true. If you have doubts about an item, you should seek the advice of a good dealer or a trusted collector. They should be able to tell you if a poster is original, re-issue, a reproduction or a phony.

A very short history lesson

Original movie posters have interested collectors for many years. These collectors were usually men (but now we are seeing a healthy interest from women, too) who were big movie fans. Many had worked in the exhibition business, as ad men, theater owners, projectionists, distributors. They had a nostalgia for this material and a knowledge of where these posters could be found: in the old National Screen Service branches and the independently run poster exchanges which existed around the country. They formed the nexus of poster collecting. Some acquired posters in bulk and rewarehoused them. Others simply approached the exchanges and asked if they might buy this or that. They began to trade with each other. Soon they were getting together at shows and confabs, trading in both posters and actual films. The early conventions happened in the later sixties, but by the seventies, film and posters conventions or shows, were common in the big cities. Stores specializing in selling movie posters, books and memorabilia began to spring up across the country. Collector ‘zines, like The Big Reel and Film Collector's World sprang up, and it was through publications like these that collectors began to know each other, correspond, and trade. The moment that the first movie poster was sold for a profit, the movie poster dealer was born. The mail-order dealer became the chief outlet for much of the trading that was done for many years. Some of the dealers that were there in the beginning are still in business. In the late 1980s, major auctions of film posters began. When the major auctioneers like Christie's and Sotheby's have made time in their schedules for film poster auctions, it indicates a wider acceptance of these posters as legitimate collectibles.

The Poster Market: Buying

Posters may be bought from other collectors, from dealers and from auctions. Information about where to buy posters can be found in any of the publications which cater to collectors. I have listed several of these in the section on selling.

Buying from dealers and collectors is usually pretty straightforward. He has something for sale. You want it. You ask about condition, you ask for a description. You ask about the price. Is it negotiable? Maybe yes, maybe no. What about a return policy? What about postage charges? Is postage refundable? What are the terms of payment? Dealers may have credit card options like Mastercard, Visa or American Express. A collector is more likely to want cash upfront, but may not have to worry about sales taxes and the like. A dealer operating in the same state usually will. Most collectors are good guys, honest and true. But sending $500 or $5,000 through the mail to someone you never met is daunting. Know who you are dealing with. A dealer who advertises regularly and who has been in business is going to be easier to appraise in this way. A dealer may publish his own catalog; this is very time consuming and expensive for him and increasingly rare. Many dealers now have computerized databases from which you can inquire by phone.

Buying from an auction house or on eBay is known as "bidding". An auction house gets an auction together and publishes a catalog of what will be auctioned. The catalog will publish low and high estimates for each poster - a range of prices in which the poster is expected to sell. Most posters will have a reserve. This is the figure that the auction house and the poster's consignor determined is the lowest price that the auction house will actually sell the poster. Reserves are not published. If the reserve is not met, the poster will not sell. Sometimes the auction house may be approached after an auction has concluded about a poster or lot, that has passed or gone unsold. The auction house may then approach their consignor as to whether the consignor wishes to sell the item at the reserve or some other price. A sale may result from this or not.

Any poster that is purchased in an auction is subject to a buyer's commission. These commissions range from 10% to 15% of the hammer price. That is, if a poster hammers for $1,000 and there is a 15% buyer's premium, then the actual amount that will be paid to the auction house if $1,150, plus any additional fees such as taxes and shipping. Shipping charges from auction houses can be steep.

The above are some of the objective concerns of buying. But there are subjective concerns as well. One man's trash is another man's treasure. This is another way of expressing that the concept of value, in poster collecting, is a relative one, and issues of worth are hard to define in terms of strict money. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Cavest emptor.

About Prices

A poster for Frankenstein auctioned for $180,000 plus a 10% buyer’s premium. It's an impressive figure, but what exactly does it mean? Does it mean that all such Frankenstein posters may be expected to fetch this amount in an auction or a private sale? Is there a solid market for this poster at this price? Will this poster be worth $500,000 in fifteen years? We don't know the answers to any of these questions, but we do know that what is demonstrated here is that someone was willing to part with almost two hundred thousand presumably hard earned dollars for this poster. Was it worth it? It was worth it to that person. That subjective factor in determining value must never be overlooked; after all, the objective record of prices realized for any given poster is merely the sum of all these subjective value judgments: worth it to whom and when? There are many private sales of many posters. These never become part of the records of prices realized because such sales are by nature confidential, but they nevertheless affect the market.

So how do you know what to pay for a poster? I think you not only keep your eyes and ears open to determine what you might be asked to pay but also I think that you have to ask yourself the same question that the buyer who purchased Frankenstein for $198,000 had to ask himself at some point: what is it worth to me? If you balance these two considerations, you can make a reasonable judgment about how much to pay. You may find a raving bargain in a flea market. More power to you if you beat the dealers to a great poster. Or you may be offered a poster you dearly want by someone you feel may be asking 200% more than you might expect it to be. But do you really know the track record on this poster. And what about your time? Do you have the time and money involved to track a similar copy down? These are subjective considerations that are involved in every deal.

These are some things you can weigh in the bargain:
1. Condition.
2. Have you ever been offered this poster before? Have you seen it for sale at what price or have you never seen it for sale at any price?
3. Is it good looking or evocative of the film or personality.

The Poster Market: Selling

You may buy for your own collection or you may buy for investment. Investing and collecting are two different activities. Don't confuse one with the other. Success in one area does not imply success in the other. A collector may be tangentially successful as an investor through a series of happy circumstances. But a collector is really concerned with acquiring items in his area of interest because he admires them. If he gets a good deal in doing so, he has made, in effect, a good investment, providing, at some point, there is an opportunity to sell. Many collectors would never sell what they have acquired. They enjoy their collections. An investor is looking from the beginning for the opportunity to divest; a collector is not. An investor in movie posters is just like an investor in the stock market, only with more risk generally. It is beyond the scope of this article, which must necessarily be focused on collecting, to address speculating in movie posters. It has been done, and done successfully. People have also lost money. If you speculate in posters to finance your collections, you must take the risk involved.

Collectors may wish to sell posters, however, without regard to making a return, specifically, on the investment.

Posters may be sold by advertising them directly in any of the various publications that cater to this activity, such as Movie Collector's World, or any other publication that I may have inadvertinently omitted. Websites such as I Collect Movie Posters.com or ebay.com are another good venue. In this activity the seller owes the buyer all the courtesies that he has expected as a buyer: reasonably prompt delivery, a right of return, etc.

Posters may be consigned to an auction, if the auction house wishes to accept them. This is somewhat more risky because the seller has less control over what the poster will actually sell for. A reserve will be set. That is the lowest price that the auctioneer will actually hammer the poster sold. If the poster does not receive a bid at least at the amount of the reserve, the poster will pass. In that case, the seller must usually pay the auction house something, usually 5% of the reserve or some minimum amount, for the service the auction house has provided in offering the poster during their auction. Of course, the upside of this is that the poster may be sold for more than expected. Read the contracts provided to consignors by the auction house. A commission must be paid by the seller to the auction house. This is called the seller's commission and it varies. Some auction houses have charged consignor's other charges as well. Payment from the auction house comes after the auction on lots for which the auction house has itself been paid. Posters have occasionally been known to hammer for high prices at auction and never actually sell. That's tough luck for the consignor.

Posters may be consigned to a dealer. The dealer, of course, wants to make some money from this, as he should. Details of a consignment must be worked out between the seller and the dealer. Use a reputable dealer; find out for yourself that the dealer is reputable. Sign a contract if you feel it's necessary, but at least lay out the terms of the consignment so that both the dealer and the consignor understand them explicitly. Working with a good dealer can be a very good way to sell a poster that you have without having to deal with the day-to-day inquiries of potential buyers, expenses of advertising etc. The poster may or may not sell right away, but you should have a firm idea what you will get if it does sell. Or if the price is somewhat negotiable you have better control over the deal than an auction consignment. The key to a successful dealer consignment is working with a dealer you respect and who respects you.

Posters may be sold outright to a dealer. This is often faster, but remember the dealer is in business to make money. He has an agenda in this activity as well as you do. He may already have the poster you have to sell - even multiple copies. So he may not be interested in investing in another. Or he may want a certain amount of time before paying. Selling outright to a dealer generally brings in less money than consigning, but there are times when it is desirable. Perhaps you know of something else you want to acquire which is time-sensitive and you need money. Again the dealer you choose is the most important thing here. Courtesy between the dealer and seller should be a two way street.

In Closing

These are some of the basics of collecting movie posters. Check out this website. Go to a convention. Attend an auction. Get on the phone with some dealers and chat. Call up another collector who likes what you do. Don't take anyone's advice as the gospel, but listen to the experiences of others with an open mind. Treat others in the hobby as you would want to be treated and expect the same.

Is my Star Wars movie poster a fake?

Star Wars material is among the most difficult to authenticate in the movie poster hobby. Everyone seems to have an opinion. I'll maintain this page as a guide (by no means comprehensive) to Star Wars poster authentication.

1977 Stars Wars One Sheet Style A

Star Wars poster

I've owned quite a few of the style A one-sheets over the years — ones that came directly from theaters, so I know they were authentic.

You may not be aware of it, but there are authorized reprints of this poster.

Much weight has been given to the dimensions of the posters, the distances of the blue border from the inner image, and the exact width of each of the four borders. I no longer can agree that any of this is set in stone. I've seen two copies of the poster, in my hands; from two different theaters, and in both cases the posters were not disturbed from their release in 1977. I personally removed them from the theaters, so there was no opportunity for anyone to slip me a fake. In both cases, the owners had no interest in their posters, which had been sitting for years, and I have no doubt whatsoever that both copies were authentic. Yet the left and right borders varied by 1/16 of an inch on both, and the top and bottom border measurements did not match either. I've stopped paying attention to the 1/16 of an inch differences. I am told that the measurement differences of 1/8 or higher are significant.

At the moment, I have a Star Wars A that I just picked up in a theater in Kentucky, in the midst of thousands of posters and again, I know for a fact that it's an original (the gentleman had not disturbed it for years). It can be argued that the white border of the LEFT of this poster is exactly one inch on the top, and may be closer to 1 1/16 inch on bottom and exactly the reverse is true of the RIGHT border. I know this was not the case with the other two originals I had. Keep in mind there was a first printing, and then many other original year printings done in different NSS locations in the country. Not every Star Wars poster definitively came off the same machine, the same day. If there were other printings that year, in other locations, it is very likely that the borders would be off from one another, in this small way. So, bottom line: I've learned from many discussions with others who own the style A, and my own ownership at various times of guaranteed authentic copies that one cannot necessarily rely on the borders within 1/16 of an inch. Most of the fakes I've seen that DON'T have the 77/21-O or 21-1 indication on the bottom have borders off by more than 1/16.

There are lots of forgeries of the style A's and C's. If you see rolled ones for less than $175 you are most likely wasting your money on a fake. Most experts say if it's rolled don't buy it. Collectors report forgeries of Star Wars style A and C with 77/21 and 77/21-0 as well as 77/21-1. Some people say that only the ones with a NSS of 77/21-0 are fake. Not True! I'll tell you this, I have bought several SW style A’s, and I have yet to get a real rolled one. I have bought folded examples, which are good. I personally won't buy them anymore unless I can get them from a theater.

1977 Star Wars Original Mylar One Sheet First Advance First version.

This poster was the first THEATER poster produced for Star Wars. The image does not do it justice. The letters and border are Mylar, in other words they appear as a mirror image (hence very difficult to photograph). These posters were shipped flat to theaters in wooden boxes. The flat shipping was done because if these posters are rolled tighter than about 4" diameter they will tend to separate or "delaminate". In other words, the Mylar will separate from the paper backing. Sadly this has been the fate of most of these posters. The Star Wars logo is not the standardized logo that was later adopted.

Star Wars First Advance Second version

The First advance second version is on card stock.

Star Wars Advance Style B

Watch out for is the SW Teaser "B". If it is priced "cheap" it is probably fake. I have bought 5 rolled ones in the last couple of months and they were all forgeries. What I do know is that the most common forgery of the "B" teaser is that it is missing the union label (it is a small oval). It should be in the bottom border. All of the ones I have seen are fake. I have not seen a real one. I've also been told that some of the letters are not as sharp as they should be.

The B Teaser fakes look pretty bad and are fairly easy to spot because the lettering is so soft looking and the color is off.

Star Wars Style A Poster

This was the poster that accompanied Star Wars on its first release. The art is by Tom Jung. This art was only used on the theater posters (which were also used for advertising merchandise). Many people will say "but I had that on a T-shirt." Artwork used on other products was similar but created by the Hildebrandt brothers (of comic book fame).

About the "A" style: The fake I have with the 77/21-0 is a heavier and glossier paper than the real folded one. The artwork is also almost a full 1/4" smaller. The paper is obvious when you put them side-by-side. Also, the real one is a little darker brown in the bottom left corner of the art. I have seen it written that there were print runs with both the 77/21-0 and 77/21 without the "Star Wars" written under the number but the fake I have does not have it. The union logo on the fake is much larger then the real one. It is 1/4" across on the fake and just a bit over 1/8" on the real. The rolled one I have, I now think, is real. It's almost a perfect match with the folded one. It is definitely a different print run however since it does not say "Star Wars" under the 77/21.

The hairline: a definite sign that many fakes have is a dust line just below Luke's belt where a hair got on the negative. If your poster has this hairline it is a fake.

It can get discouraging. I recently had one "expert" tell me that the only fakes of the "A" have the 77/21-0 or 77/21-1. The next day I got an email from a poster consultant who said that there are fakes of the poster with the 77/21. They also said that they have NEVER seen a real rolled "A".

Here is how I (CURRENTLY) would describe an original Star Wars Style A poster: The art from outer border to outer border is 24 15/16" - 25 inches. - One white border on the left is exactly 1 inch. The white border on right is exactly 1 inch, or only 1/16" inch larger or smaller than 1 inch. Very slight indent for the word COPYRIGHT on the very bottom of poster (about 1/8 inch). The sign for copyright (c with circle) below the image but above the credits is, if you measure to the dead CENTER of the circle, 1/2 inch from the outside blue border, 3/8 inch from the inside of blue border, and 1/4 inch from BROWN edge of art. The Graphic arts international logo and Litho in USA are closer to the bottom edge of the poster than the lower blue border. In other words, they aren't exactly in the center of the lower white border. The GAI logo lies a bit above the litho in USA words. The 77/21 is flush with the outer blue border. It can have two types of type used. I know this because of the one I got out of a Canadian theater. It can have the elongated numeric font used by NSS, which measures 1/4 inch high, or it can have the slightly shorter, thicker font. The words Star Wars appear below the 77/21. Again, I know for a fact that the originals do have Star Wars written under the 77/21 (or at least all that I've ever seen). And again, I don't know what to say about rolled ones. I have yet to see an authentic rolled Style A, though they may exist.

The style A's were printed by National Screen Service. Up until the early 80's, they handled the printing and distribution of movie posters for all the major studios. They tended to get a little funny with the codes that were printed in the corners of the posters. Every time they went back and printed the A's, they would change the code. It was probably an inventory thing.

About seven years ago, a company (whose name now escapes me) reprinted thousands of Star Wars A's, C's and B teasers. The A's are extremely difficult to spot and dealers have been selling them as original ever since they showed up. The reprinted ones have the designation "77/21-0" at the bottom. That doesn't mean that all of the posters with the other designation are fakes, there are at least four different printing codes on the original A's, but the rolled ones with the "-0" are all suspect now.

Star Wars Style C Poster

The C's are not quite as difficult to spot, but they still look pretty good and I'm sure a lot of people have been ripped off. The only good way to know if it has been reprinted is to look at the dot pattern of the color separation with a 30-power magnifying lens. If most of the dots are perfectly round, then it is an original. If most of the dots look broken or moon shaped, then it has been "re-separated" from an original printing and is a fake.

Star Wars Style D Poster

This poster was issued in 1978 after Star Wars had been in the theaters for a while. The art is by Drew Struzan and Charles White III.
The SW style "D" fan club reprints have a dot matrix serial number on them. The rolled one I have has the union label going into the credit portion of the poster somewhat.

Star Wars Birthday Poster

This poster was issued in 1978 to those theaters that had played Star Wars for 1 year continuously. Probably fewer than 500 of these posters were ever printed. It is now one of the most sought-after Star Wars posters.

Revenge Of The Jedi

Be careful with the Revenge posters. I will no longer buy this poster with the release date since most being sold today are forgeries. The forgeries are folded in many cases. The same poster without the date has no known forgeries. On the Revenge, the fakes I have seen have blurry 20th Century Fox logos. The one I have now actually has the blue color of the logo in the bottom right corner.

On the ROTJ Style A: I was told that the top horizontal light bar coming off of the saber has color in it. It does in all of mine. The copy I'm told is a white line. I am also told that on the same forgery there is a curved hairline, almost as if a piece of dust got on the negative — you can easily see about 2 centimeters to the right of the moon in the bottom left of the art. I did notice that one of my rolled ones was darker in the area to the left side of the saber. This was the one I suspected might be fake.

I get about two or three offers a month to buy REVENGE of the Jedi One-sheets. Those are the worst. I have a standard email reply to those, I just can't afford the mistake. Beware on the Revenge with the date. There are many forgeries of this poster out there. In particular look for a hairline of red above the yellow line.

QUICK RULES OF THUMB

1. Star Wars Style "A" - Copyright at left bottom is flush with artwork on the fakes. Should be indented slightly (a little less then 1/8th"). Also, look for a hairline on Luke’s belt. If you see a hairline, it is a fake.
2. Star Wars Style "A" - Artwork is slightly smaller on fake.
3. Star Wars Style "C" - Hard to tell. The faces of the characters are yellowish on the fakes rather than orange-brown.
4. Star Wars Style "D" - The fake has a dot matrix serial number on the bottom border.
5. Star Wars Advance Style "B" - Smearing around some of the edges of the letters on the fake. Also, the fake is missing the union label left of center on the bottom is missing.
6. Revenge of the Jedi Advance (The one with the opening date) Blurred 20th Century Fox Logo on fake also you can see the fold lines from the original the fake was copied from. Look for a hairline of red between the yellow stripe and black background. I have also heard that there are no known rolled copies of this poster.

Are Old Movie Posters Worth Anything?

When it comes to old movie posters, many people wonder if those colorful, nostalgic pieces of art could be worth something significant. The short answer? It depends. While the rarest of the rare can indeed fetch a small fortune, the vast majority of movie posters have little monetary value. Let’s explore why this is the case and what you should consider when evaluating your collection.

What Do We Mean by "Movie Posters"?

To clarify, when we talk about movie posters, we’re referring to authentic theatrical posters displayed in movie theaters to promote films—not the mass-produced reproductions sold by big-box retailers like Walmart, Amazon, or your local department store. Authentic movie posters were typically printed in limited quantities, meant for distribution to theaters, and were often returned or discarded after use. This exclusivity gives them their potential value, but only under specific circumstances.

The Value of Authentic Theatrical Posters

The value of a movie poster hinges on a few key factors:

1. Rarity: The fewer copies of a poster that exist, the more valuable it is. Posters for lesser-known films or limited-run releases often command higher prices.

Revenge of the Jedi Movie Poster
Rare Poster printed before George Lucas changed the name of the movie to 'Return of the Jedi'.

2. Condition: Collectors value posters in pristine condition. Tears, folds, fading, and pinholes from theater displays can significantly reduce their worth.

Movie Poster with Fold Lines
Fold Lines can lower the value of a poster.

3. Film Popularity: Posters for iconic films—especially cult classics, blockbuster hits, or films with a devoted fanbase—tend to hold more value. Think original Star Wars, Casablanca, or Jaws posters.

star wars original 1977 movie poster
Original 1977 Star Wars Movie Poster.

4. Artist and Design: Posters designed by notable artists or featuring exceptional artwork can drive up their value. Saul Bass and Drew Struzan, for example, are celebrated names in poster art.

Saul Bass The Shining Movie Poster
Saul Bass The Shining Movie Poster.

5. Provenance: A poster’s history can add to its allure. Posters owned by prominent collectors or those with a clear, traceable origin are often more desirable.

Image
Original Metropolis Poster purchased by Leonardo DiCaprio for $690,000.

Why Most Posters Have Limited Value

Despite the romantic idea of striking gold with your childhood collection, the truth is that most movie posters lack significant value. Why? Mass production and wide availability are the main culprits. Many posters were printed in large quantities for blockbuster films, making them less rare and therefore less valuable. Additionally, modern reproductions have flooded the market, which can confuse potential buyers and dilute interest in originals.

How to Assess the Value of Your Posters

If you suspect your poster might be a gem, it’s essential to seek out an expert appraisal. A professional can help authenticate your item, evaluate its condition, and determine its rarity and desirability in the current market.


At iGuide.net, we specialize in providing accurate appraisals based on real sales data. Whether it’s a vintage Gone with the Wind poster or a quirky horror film one-sheet, our team of experts can guide you through the process and help you understand its true worth.

If you're curious about the value of your movie posters or other collectibles, visit iguide.net for a professional appraisal. Knowing the real market value can help you decide whether to hold on to your treasures or turn them into a rewarding payday.



Remember, understanding your collectibles starts with expert insight. Don’t leave it to chance—consult with an appraiser and make the most of your movie poster collection!

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