The iGuide Grading Guide provides several layers of depth to appeal to both new and advanced collectors alike. We suggest "report card" grades which we hope will help non-experts. Grading should be easy but too often for new collectors it is not. A term like MINT is vague for newbies. But grade A makes sense to anybody who has ever received a report card. The iGuide Grading Guide provides our so-called "report card" letter grades from A+ to F, as well our our 1 to 10 numeric grades (on a scale of 1 to 10) and then the standard grades used by many collector books. These grades attempt to describe preservation state. They follow rules used by collectors for years to keep things clear when buying, selling, or talking about items. Grading helps with consistency in buying, selling, and advertising. Proper grading takes a lot of experience and is more an art than a science, so we hope this guide will help you get started as you learn how to MAKE THE GRADE.

Unused Grades

The term UNUSED refers to a knife that has never been used. It has never been sharpened, carried, handled and is in unused condition. The unused grades range from a perfect A+ to an unused but showing faint signs of wear from opening/closing but without sharpening (B). Unused knives can be divided into these major grades:

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A+

Mint in Box (OMP)
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 10.
Perfect, i.e. - in OMP (original manufacture's packaging) where applicable. Brilliant, unusually bright, LIKE NEW. Example is in brand new condition, includes the original box and all original paperwork (if applicable) included in the box at the time of original purchase. The box itself is in new to almost new condition and exhibits few if any flaws. The knife inside the box is in brand new condition and has no noticeable flaws.

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A

Mint or aka M
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 9.
Almost like new to new. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. No cracks, no wobble, excellent snap; may be lacking the OMP (original manufacturer's packaging). Extremely fine, Superb.  Example is in almost like new condition. The box itself is in excellent condition but may possess a minor flaws such as corner dings, small creases in the box or even small scratches on the box.

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A-

Near Mint or NM
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 8.
Almost perfect. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. No cracks, no wobble, excellent snap; may be lacking the OMP (original manufacturer's packaging). Deep, rich color with excellent original patina and gloss. May exhibit one or two minor carbon spots on a backspring, bolster, or blade.

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B+

Very Fine or VF
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 7.
An exceptional example. Acceptable to all but the most finicky collector. This is a bright, clean, extremely fine example. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. Could possibly have a pin crack (minor), but has no wobble, and has excellent blade snap; may be lacking the OMP (original manufacturer's packaging). The item may have very minor spotting but no signs of sharpening. The backspring exhibit carbon spotts or a minor scratch or two. Otherwise, the item has no major defects but may not be quite as bright as Near Mint. May or may not have original box.

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B

Fine Very Fine or FVF
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 6.
Showing signs of storage wear. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. Could possibly have a pin crack (minor), but has no wobble, and has excellent blade snap. Although this example may or may not include the original box (if applicable, many early knives never came in a box), it also may or may not include original paperwork (if applicable) included in the box at the time of original purchase. If the box itself is present, it may not be in ideal condition The box most likely has several creases, tears, scratches, etc.



An unused Case knife with a pin crack. Pin cracks are common with Case yellow composites.

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Used Grades

Knives that have been sharpened, carried, handled and played with by the children are considered USED. They have been in circulation, meaning they have been handled, fondled, admired, and carried (like they were supposed to be) sometimes for decades. As a result, they are worn to one degree or another. Collectors have established the following grades for rating just how used an item actually is:

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C+

Fine or F
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 5.
Still fine without chips, cracks, color flakes or visible damage of any kind, but aging in a more significant amount than in the FVF grade. The knife has been carried, sharpened, handled and is obviously used. It may have a crack or pin cracks, may have a weak blade snap. Possible minor wobble may be noticeable when testing the blades.

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C

Very Good or VG
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 4.
An average used knife. Knife has been sharpened. It has blade wobble. It has a crack or several pin cracks. It is obviously USED. The blades are worn and possibly slightly pitted, although not to an extreme degree. This example may exhibit color flake or blade crazing, or bolster/backspring scratches but is complete without major damage or repairs.



A heavily worn Case knife exhibiting blade pitting.

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C-

Good to Very Good or GD/VG
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 3.
Very much used. Beginning to show signs of significant wear. It has blade wobble. It has a crack or several pin cracks. It has been heavily sharpened over the years.

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D

Good or GD
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 2.
A worn, crazed, distressed example. This example is in visibly worn condition, and could have flaws which may include small scratches or surface wear. However, this does not includes broken or chipped blades or missing pieces. Typically a filler-copy only.

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D-

Fair or FR
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 1.
The lower grades are separated by degrees of damage. The accumulation of many defects lowers the item from the D grade down to D-. This example is in used, displayed or battered condition. It has been heavily sharpened and may contain scratches, blade wear, chips, dings or even small cracks.

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F

Poor or PR
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 0.
Extremely worn, damaged or incomplete, although such should be noted. This example is in distressed condition...

When it comes to Randall Made Knives (RMK), the sheaths that accompany these iconic blades are almost as collectible as the knives themselves. The history of RMK sheaths is rich and varied, with different makers contributing to the legacy over the decades. From the early days of Clarence Moore to the current production by Sullivan's Holster Shop, each sheath tells a part of the RMK story.

Very Early Sheaths

1937: Very early, seldom-seen 'Basket Weave' sheaths were produced by various makers in 1937. Clarence Moore of Orlando, FL, was the original sheath maker for Randall Knives, starting his production in 1937 and continuously supplying sheaths until the spring of 1954.

Introduction of the Sharpening Stone Pocket

1942: The 'A' Model sheath, introduced by Moore, was the first to include a sharpening stone pocket, a revolutionary idea at the time.

WWII and Increased Production

1943-1944: WWII increased demand for Randall Knives, prompting W.D. 'Bo' Randall to seek additional sheath makers. Southern Saddlery of Chattanooga, TN, and H.H. Heiser Saddlery Company of Denver, CO, answered the request for bids. Southern only produced sheaths from June 1943 to the spring of 1944. It's believed that by 1944, Moore and Heiser could meet RMK's needs adequately.

1943 Heiser Sheath

1943-1964: H.H. Heiser began production of sheaths for RMK in the spring of 1943 and continued after the war until late 1964. Starting in late 1943, two rivets were added to the throat of the sheath for extra security and strength. This was discontinued in 1947 but would return in 1954 with the introduction of the Heiser 'C' Model sheath.

Post-War Production

1946-1964: Heiser 'Brown Button' sheaths were made in 1946 and from 1949 to 1964. Red & Brown Button sheaths first appeared in 1946 and were simultaneously manufactured by Moore and Heiser.

Brown Button Sheaths

1954: Heiser riveted Model 'C' sheaths were introduced with the first Model 14's and 15's. These sheaths featured canteen-style 'Lift the Dot' straps and brown button snaps on the stone pocket.

1958: Heiser made the first waxed leather sheaths for RMK in 1958 for the Model 16 diver's knife. Demand waned for the waxed sheaths limiting the production.

Transition to Maurice Johnson

1965: By early 1965, Heiser was no longer making sheaths for Randall, and Maurice Johnson of Orlando, FL, took over the entire RMK sheath production. The earliest Johnson sheaths used Brown Buttons with smooth nickel-plated brass 'baby dot' snaps in 1964.

1965-1970s: By late 1965 and into the early 1970s, Johnson was making riveted sheaths for RMK in the 'Rough Back' form only. Heiser 'C' model sheaths used seven small brass or steel rivets, while early Johnson sheaths originally had large copper rivets at the sheath throat. Later Johnson sheaths used smaller rivets throughout, including a few early 'Split Back' sheaths.

The Johnson's Contribution

1965-1982: Johnson made 'Rough Back' sheaths for RMK. He handed over the company to his son Johnny Johnson, who ran the business until his untimely death in 1991. Paracord made its debut in the early 1970s Model 'C' sheaths. Gold Paracord was first used from 1971-1972 before being replaced with the standard OD color still in use today.

Johnson's early 1970s Gold Cord

1990-1991: Johnny Johnson made some rare 'Smooth Back' sheaths, most likely in response to the growing popularity of the new Sullivan's design of the late 1980s.

Transition to Sullivan's Holster Shop

1986: Sullivan's Holster Shop of Tampa Bay, FL, owned and operated by Greg Gutcher Sr., started a business relationship with RMK in late 1986. Sullivan's took over the sole production of RMK sheaths in December 1991 and is currently the only authorized sheath maker for RMK.

1987: The 'Double Stitch' Sullivan's Model 'C' for Model 14 and 18 was first introduced in early 1987. Model 'C' sheaths for shorter blade lengths on Models 15, 17, and 18 all use the 'single stitch' method.

1995: Originally, Sullivan's used linen thread for their stitching. In 1995, they switched to synthetic thread, initially white in color. This was followed by a limited run of 'brown stitch' sheaths from mid-1998 through early 1999. Current production features a synthetic 'Tan' thread. RMK enthusiasts appreciate Sullivan's willingness to provide a sheath tailored to their specifications and the high quality of manufacture.
Examples of Various Sheath Models Currently Offered by RMK via Sullivan’s

In Conclusion

The sheaths of Randall Made Knives are not only functional accessories but also cherished collectibles that tell the story of the knives' rich history. It’s important to understand that Bo Randall was frugal and didn’t let things go to waste. Sometimes a sheath would sit for years before being used if the model wasn’t a top seller. This led to interesting combinations of sheaths, stones, buttons, and knives from different years. It’s a range rather than an exact year when dating your Randall knife. Collectors and enthusiasts alike continue to seek out these sheaths for their historical significance and craftsmanship, making them a vital part of the Randall Made Knives heritage.

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Before considering the sale of your valuable knife collection, it's paramount to create a detailed inventory list. This critical document is often the first thing requested by prospective buyers. Collectors and dealers rely on specific information to gauge their interest and propose a fair price. Without a detailed inventory, assessing the value and interest in your collection can be difficult or impossible. For those new to the world of knife collecting, the task may appear daunting. However, this guide aims to simplify the process, ensuring you cover all necessary details efficiently.

iGuide suggests utilizing a spreadsheet application, such as Google Sheets or Microsoft Excel, for inventory management. Google Sheets is particularly favored among buyers for its accessibility and is available at no cost with a Gmail account. Creating a Gmail account is straightforward and can be done by searching for "FREE GMAIL ACCOUNT" online.
(detail from a Google Sheets page)

What are the key details buyers need to know?

A good list will contain these key points at a minimum:

Brand

The brand or maker of your knife will usually be printed on the handle, often on the shield (the little metal tag on the handle) or on the blade near where the blade and the handle connect. This tiny text printed on the blade is called the TANG STAMP.

Model Number

The MODEL or PATTERN number of your knife is very important. It is usually stamped on the TANG STAMP. Write all the text, for example: 3254 SS.

Blades

How many blades does the knife have?

Year of Production

Do you know? Often the year is printed on the knife blade or on its box if you still have it. This is very helpful information, but optional.

Condition

State whether the knife is USED or LIKE NEW. If it is in the original box, mention it.

Quantity

How many do you have? The answer goes into your quantity column.

Country

What country was the knife made in? This too can often be found on one of the tang stamps, or on the box if you have it.

Special Notes

Sometimes you may have a limited edition, or a commemorative knife. There may be some text and art printed on the blade. This is important information. Include it in your Notes column.

Who buys knife collections today?

One of the top buyers of fine knife collections is 2nd Markets of Nashville, TN. Google 2ND MARKETS BBB PROFILE to learn more.

Learn More About Knife Values

iGuide’s knife price guide is a good place to find the pricing information about your knife collection and its current value. Learn more. This guide provides a starting point for creating an inventory list of your knife collection. By documenting your collection thoroughly, you're not only preparing for potential sales but also preserving the history and value of your cherished items.

For over 130 years, Case knives have been trusted companions for farmers, ranchers, cowboys, and everyday folks alike. But the story behind these iconic American blades goes deeper than just utility. It's a tale of family, craftsmanship, and an unwavering commitment to quality.

From Wagon to Workshop

The saga begins in 1889, when the Case brothers – William Russell, Jean, John, and Andrew – started selling handcrafted knives from their horse-drawn wagon in upstate New York. Their dedication to quality quickly built a reputation, leading to the formation of the Case Brothers Cutlery Company in 1900.

Taking Root in Bradford

In 1905, seeking expansion, the company relocated to Bradford, Pennsylvania, where it remains today. John Russell Case, son of William Russell, formed W.R. Case & Sons. Under his leadership, the company thrived, establishing its "Tested XX" trademark, signifying blades tempered twice for superior strength.

A Legacy Forged in War and Peace

Case knives played a crucial role in both World Wars, supplying sturdy pocketknives and utility blades to American soldiers. These wartime models are now prized collectibles. And beyond battlefields, Case knives became ubiquitous tools for farmers, ranchers, and anyone needing a reliable cutting companion.

More Than Just Blades

While pocket knives remain their core, Case expanded its offerings over the years. From fixed-blade hunting knives to kitchen cutlery and commemorative collectibles, the brand caters to diverse needs while maintaining its focus on quality and craftsmanship.

Carrying on the Tradition

Today, W.R. Case & Sons remains family-owned and operated, carrying on the legacy of its founders. Each knife is a testament to their commitment to quality, using time-tested techniques and premium materials. And as they forge ahead, Case knives continue to be more than just tools, they're symbols of American heritage, passed down through generations and trusted by those who value tradition and craftsmanship.

So, the next time you pull out your Case knife, remember the rich history it embodies. It's not just a blade, it's a piece of Americana, ready to tackle any task, big or small.

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To narrow down the production range of a Randall Made Knife (RMK), examining the types of snaps on the sheaths and the sharpening stones in the leather pouches are two effective methods. These details provide valuable clues for accurately dating the knives and understanding their historical context. By closely analyzing these components, collectors and enthusiasts can gain deeper insights into the history and evolution of these iconic knives.

Dating by Snaps on Sheaths

1942-1945: Brass and plain metal snaps were originally used on most of the Moore, Southern, and Heiser sheaths during WWII RMK production knives. Many of the snaps were enameled in black or burgundy colors.


1943 HH Heiser Model 1 Sheath

Late 1943-1945: HH Heiser used logo snaps, though plain snaps were more common.

1945: Heiser and Moore began using the seldom-seen red lucite Randall logo snaps. Sporadic use of these snaps was discontinued in 1949.

1946-1947: Transition Heiser sheaths with red and brown snaps were likely made during this period.

1946-Late 1964: The highly sought "brown button" RMK logo snaps were used by H.H. Heiser and then by Maurice Johnson, who used up the remaining stock by late 1965.


RMK “Brown Button’ Logo Snap

1954-1964: The famous "Lift the Dot" canteen snap Heiser "C" model sheaths were produced. Initially, these sheaths had seven large silver rivets, but smaller rivets were eventually used by both Heiser and Johnson. These sheaths were phased out by the end of 1973.


‘Lift the Dot’ canteen snap

1962-1965: The early Johnson brown buttons and the transition brown button with smooth button sheaths were produced. The "baby dot" nickel-plated smooth snaps, a stronger harness strap, were first used by Johnson in early 1963 and fully integrated into his sheath-making process by 1964.

1965: Heiser's production was discontinued, and Maurice Johnson took over as RMK's sole sheath maker. He continued using "baby dot" snaps throughout his 18-year relationship with RMK. His son Johnny Johnson continued this practice when he took over the family business in 1982. He used the smooth snaps until his untimely death in December of 1991.


Early 1970s Maurice Johnson Model C Smooth Snaps

Late 1986-1995: The first "baby dot" or smooth button sheaths from Sullivan's were produced. Some Sullivan transition sheaths having one smooth and one logo snap were produced from 1995-1996. The RMK logo snaps on the sheaths, as seen today, were first used in 1995.

Dating by Sharpening Stone

This method is considered less reliable due to the ease with which stones can be lost or replaced.


Examples of Sharpening Stones over the years

1942-1946: The earliest stones used by Randall were a variant of a thin greenish-gray stone. Some of these were marked "BARBORUNDUM BRAND NO. 71 DRAFTSMAN'S STONE."

1946-1954: This period saw the introduction of the Soft Arkansas or Lily White Washita Stone. Most of these early white stones were made by Norton Abrasives.

Early 1950s: Included some grayish-marbled stones and reddish-brown stones with a fish hook sharpening groove.

Mid 1954-Early 1970s: The common two-part combination gray Crystolon stone was introduced. The earliest versions were marked "Made in the U.S.of A." with later ones marked "Made in the U.S.A." These two-part stones are commonly seen configured with either blue ink on the light side or yellow ink on the dark side.

1969-1972: During the Vietnam Era, RMK used a Soft Arkansas/Washita Stone (white stone) supplied by A.G. Russell.

Early 1970s: A solid gray, medium grit Crystolon stone was used briefly before being replaced by the Norton "Bear Brand" SP-13 Stone from 1973-1975.

Late 1975: The orange "Fine India" stone was introduced and is still in use today.

Understanding these details about the sharpening stones and sheath snaps can significantly aid collectors and enthusiasts in accurately dating their Randall Made Knives, providing a richer context to their historical value. It's important to understand that "Bo" Randall did not waste materials. As a result, products can appear across multiple manufacturing years, even after a transition. They used what they had on hand, and sometimes new materials would get mixed with old ones.

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Early RMK's (Pre-War): Early Randall Made Knives, crafted before World War II, bore a striking resemblance to William (Bill) Scagel knives. They frequently featured leather and brass spacers near the hilt and were often finished with 'crown' stag handles, reflecting a high level of craftsmanship.

1939 Randall w/ the Scagel-style spacers

By the End of 1942: WD 'Bo' Randall had largely standardized the handle types for his knives, favoring plain stag, stacked leather, or wood handles. This period marked the beginning of more uniform production methods.

Stag Handles

Pre-1958: Stag handles are among the easiest to date. Early stag handle knives produced prior to 1958 utilized brass pins for securing the handle. Initially, two pins were used, but by 1946, this was reduced to one pin. As better epoxies became available, the use of pins was phased out entirely, with the exception of some special order knives into the early 1960s.

Single-pin and double-pinned stag fighters

Until Around 1973: A seven-spacer stack was commonly used at the hilt end on most stag knives. Around 1973, Gary Randall decided to standardize to a five-spacer configuration for all regular production models, including those with stag and wood handles.

Stacked Leather Handles

1942-1945: Early stacked leather handles were more cylindrical and tapered down on both the hilt and pommel ends. These handles were also thicker than the washers used today.

1943 Fighter with thicker, cylindrical Leather Washers

Late 1945: The thinner, more oblong leather handles we recognize today first appeared. This period also saw the introduction of the thong hole through the Duraluminum buttcap. Two versions of stacked leather handles were produced in 1945, and these versions resurfaced during the Korean Conflict in 1950. It's believed that sales plummeted post-WWII, leaving many knives unsold until the 1950s.

By 1953: The thinner, tapered style of stacked leather handles had become the norm for virtually all models.

Tenite & Micarta Handles

1954: Tenite handles made their debut with the introduction of the RMK Model #14 'Attack' and Model #15 'Airman' knives. The first Tenite handles were off-white, but by 1955, the more common green Tenite was in use. All production Tenite models featured two exposed screws and an extended tang with a thong hole. A few 'transition' knives were made during the change to Micarta handles, including some Model #16 'Diver's Knife' versions.

Model 14 White Tenite Handle

1960: Gray Micarta was introduced for the Model #17 'Astro'. By late 1963, the extended tang had been removed from RMK Models #14, #15, and #16, and a chocolate brown Micarta was used. These transition knives initially had exposed screws, but this was soon changed to plugged handles. By early 1966, screws were no longer needed, as epoxies secured the handle.

By 1967: Black Micarta became the standard. Some Tenite models were rehandled with Micarta as they returned to RMK for repair, since Tenite handles did not hold up well to the moisture and heat of Vietnam, often warping and breaking.

Modern Black Micarta handles

Late 1968: Originally, Micarta handle knives featured an unlined, chamfered 3/16" thong hole. In late 1968, a brass ferrule was introduced as a special order item, and by late 1972, it became a standard feature in normal production. Be cautious of those removing the ferrule to make their knives appear older.

Hollow Handle

1963: The Model #18 'Survival Knife', known for its hollow handle, was introduced. The original design utilized modified blades from Models #14 and #15 and featured a rubber 'crutch tip' butt cap and a pinched tube handle, which aligned with the hilt widths of Models #14 and #15.

Randall Model 18 Crutch Tip

By 1965: The hilt of the Model #18 was widened, eliminating the need for a severe pinch. Rubber crutch tips were used until 1972, after which a threaded brass end cap was introduced.

The evolution of Randall Made Knives' handles reflects a rich history of innovation and adaptation to both materials and user needs. Understanding these historical developments not only enriches our appreciation for these knives but also helps collectors and enthusiasts accurately date and value their pieces. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, the history of RMK handles offers fascinating insights into the legacy of one of America's most iconic knife makers.

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Dating a Randall knife can be a real chore! The more you understand about the frugal nature of W.D. 'Bo' Randall and the 'First in, Last out' policy of the shop, you begin to realize that it's more of a range rather than an exact date. The more information you have on the subtle changes to production through the years, the better you can narrow that range and avoid buying a misrepresented knife. Blade steel and stamps have had slight variations over the years; here are some things to look for.

Steel

The earliest RMK blades were made from steel automotive springs. Since the early 1940s, RMK's primary steel has been a 'High Carbon' Swedish 01 tool steel. In addition to the Swedish 'tool steel,' RMK also uses 440B Stainless Steel. The debut of the 'Fish,' 'Oyster,' and 'Barkeep' knives in the 1940s marked when stainless became viable for future knife production, though some stainless was used as far back as 1938. ATS-34 was introduced in the early 1990s as an option for models #9, #10, #24, and possibly a few 'non-catalogue' models.

Blade Stamps

In the early 1980s, the United States Postal Service (USPS) switched over to two-letter abbreviations for each of the 50 states. Some blade stamps have FLA., and others have FL. To some degree, this creates a line between pre-1980s knives, but this is not totally accurate.

The stamp maker made up a few stamps at the time with the 'FL' logo in both large and small variants; these were used only on stainless steel knives. Old and new versions of the stamps are in use. You'll find that the 'FL' stamp is interchangeable with the 'FLA' stamp, but only on stainless steel blades and only on those made after 1984. You won't ever see a 'FL' stamp on any legitimate O1 'high carbon' blade of any size as made by RMK.

FL & FLA stamps

Around 1958/59, a double-stamped 'SS' marking was first used on Orlando-made stainless blades, not the 01 Swedish tool steel. This practice continued until around 1963 when one of the S's was dropped.

1958-1963 Double SS Stainless Steel Stamp

The single S was usually stamped low on the ricasso, known to collectors as the 'Low S.' This method continued through at least 1965.

1963-1965 the 'Low S' Stainless stamp

The S was then moved up and adjacent to the RMK logo stamp. These adjacent S stamps are known to collectors as the 'Separate S.' They were made in Orlando from 1966 to 1971.

1966-1971 'Separate S' Stainless stamp

By 1972, stainless steel blades from Orlando are stamped with an RMK logo stamp with the S integrated.

From 1957-1977, RMK contracted to have their stainless blades forged in Solingen, Germany. This gave them an expedient, low-cost alternative to meet demand as the United States entered conflicts in the Southeast Asian war 'Vietnam.' The first Solingen blades were used on the Model #14 and #15. They were marked vertically on the ricasso as 'RANDALL MADE, SOLINGEN GERMANY.' By 1963, the marking changed to a single vertical ricasso stamp of 'STAINLESS' with the Solingen logo etched horizontally where the Orlando stamp normally resided, often with a single 'S' etched in too.

Vietnam war Era Solingen Stainless Stamp

RMK LOGO Stamp Letter Spacing Pre-1973

From the earliest, the Randall stamp on the blade remained seemingly unchanged. The 'O' in Orlando began about a half space indented from the 'R' of Randall. The comma between ORLANDO and FLA was about half a letter high, and no space separated it from 'FLA.'.

About the mid to late 1960s, the stamp was apparently changed slightly. The comma between Orlando and FLA was reduced in height, a small space was introduced between the comma and FLA, and because of that, the 'O' of Orlando was moved more directly under the 'R' of Randall, indented only about 1/8 letter or so.

Example of the letter spacing changes on the stamp from 1950s to late 1960s

Understanding these nuances can help you better date a Randall knife and appreciate the craftsmanship and history behind each blade. By paying close attention to the steel type, blade stamps, and subtle changes over the years, you can make a more informed purchase and avoid misrepresentation. Happy collecting!

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W. R. Case & Sons did not stamp the pattern number on their knives consistently until 1949. However, the pattern number has always been used at the factory level for purposes of records, cataloging, etc. I feel that, after you become familiar with the system, you will agree that is it very comprehensive.

Case uses abbreviated letters following the pattern number to identify various types of blades. Briefly, let us look at a pattern number and its abbreviated letters. For example, let us take pattern number: 6347 SH SP SSP. To the new collector, this number might seem complicated, but, a little time spent studying this article should make it very easy to understand.

NOTE: When a zero (0) appears before the first number or in the middle of the pattern number, it signifies that the pattern is a modification of another pattern.

The FIRST NUMBER designates the type of handle material used. It is coded as follows:

• (1) – Walnut
• (2) – Slick Black or Black Composition
• (3) – Yellow Composition
• (4) – White Composition
• (5) – Genuine Stag, Second Cut Stag, Red Stag, or Midnight Stag
• (6) – Jigged Bone (Bone Stag), Imitation Jigged Bone (Delrin), or laminated wood
• (6.5) – Genuine Bone Stag
• (7) – Curley Maple and Other Woods, Tortoise Shell, Black and Pakawood
• (8) – Genuine Pearl, Abalone, or Paua
• (9) – Imitation Pearl or Cracked Ice
• (10) – Micarta
• (A6) - Appaloosa Smooth Bone
• (B) - Imitation onyx
• (CI) - Cracked Ice
• (CT) - Christmas Tree
• (EX) - Exotic(Red Coral, Blue Lapis, Exotic Turquoise, and others)
• (G) - Green Metal Flake, Red metal Flake, or Pick Bone
• (G6) - Smooth Green Bone
• (GS) - Goldstone, Gold Metal Flake, or Glitter Stripe
• (H) - Molten Brown or Cream Composite
• (HA) - High Art
• (I) - Imitation Ivory, or Mammoth Ivory
• (M) - Metal
• (P) - Pakkawood
• (R) - Candy Cane Stripe celluloid
• (RM) - Red Mottled
• (S) - Silver
• (SG6) - Smooth Green Bone
• (SR6) - Smooth rose bone
• (V5) - Vintage Stag
• (V6) - Vintage Bone

The SECOND NUMBER represents the number of blades.

The THIRD and FOURTH NUMBERS are the factory pattern. When a (1/2) follows the pattern it indicates that the master blade is of the “clip” style.

Next we come to the abbreviated letters following the pattern number. These letters identify the type of blades used. These letters are coded as follows:

• SAB – Master Blade is Saber Ground
• SP – Spay Blade
• P – Punch Blade
• RAZ – Razor or “One Arm Man” Blade
• F – File Blade
• PEN – Pen Blade
In addition to the abbreviated letters listed above you will note the following letters stamped on the blade following the abbreviated letters. This letter will help you in identifying individual patterns. They are as follows
• L – Blade locked when open
• EO – Easy Open
• SCIS or SC – Scissors
• SHAD or S – Shallow (No Bolsters
• SS – Stainless Steel Blades & Springs
• SSP – Stainless Steel Blades & Springs (Polished)
• DR – Bolsters Drilled for Lanyard
• R – Bail in Handle
• T – Tip Bolsters

Knives, from their humble beginnings as tools of survival, have evolved into objects of art, history, and personal interest. Knife collecting, spanning centuries and continents, reflects this multifaceted appeal. Delve into this intriguing world with us:

From Antiquity to Auction

While collecting artifacts like weapons and tools pre-dates recorded history, organized knife collecting is relatively recent. The late 19th century saw a surge in interest, fueled by growing affluence and fascination with American westward expansion. Early collectors focused on historical pieces like Bowie knives and military blades.

The 20th Century Boom

The 20th century witnessed a boom in knife collecting, with specialized clubs, publications, and shows emerging. New categories like custom knives and tactical folders entered the scene, broadening the collector's landscape.

Who Collects the Blade?

The diverse world of knife collectors attracts individuals with various motivations:

• The Historian — Drawn to the past, they seek knives that tell stories of wars, cultures, or specific historical figures.
• The Craftsman — Appreciating meticulous design and engineering, they value knives made with exceptional materials and techniques.
• The Investor — Seeking financial gain, they focus on rare, limited-edition, or vintage pieces with potential market appreciation.
• The Practical Collector — They combine interest with utility, collecting knives for everyday use while appreciating their value as collectibles.

Market Values: A Double-Edged Sword

The value of a collectible knife is influenced by several factors, including:

• Age and Rarity — Older, rarer knives generally command higher prices.
• Condition — Mint condition significantly increases value.
• Maker and Provenance — Renowned makers and documented history raise desirability.
• Market Trends — Popular patterns and materials fluctuate in value over time.

It's crucial to remember that the market value shouldn't solely drive collecting. Genuine passion, a thirst for knowledge, and appreciation for history and craftsmanship are the cornerstones of this fulfilling hobby.

The Future of Sharpened Passions

Knife collecting continues to evolve, embracing online communities and forums, attracting younger generations, and expanding its scope to include modern tactical and artistic designs. While market values remain significant, the true allure lies in the stories each blade whispers, the craftsmanship it embodies, and the connection it offers to history and heritage. So, whether you're drawn to the practical edge of a pocketknife or the historical weight of a military dagger, the world of knife collecting welcomes you with a treasure trove of stories and blades waiting to be discovered. Just remember, the most valuable collection is the one built on genuine passion and appreciation.

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iGuide's Knife Collector Guide

Randall Made Knives, founded by Bo Randall in 1938, is renowned for its handcrafted knives. Each model has its unique history, design, and purpose. Below is a guide to models 25 - 28 and the years they were released.

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1988
Model 25 - The Trapper: Drop-point hunter-style knife, similar to Model #11. Handle construction is reminiscent of a 1930's design.

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1990
Model 26 - Pathfinder: Excellent skinning and outdoor knife with a drop point. This knife has become one of our more popular small size hunting knives.

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2000
Model 27 - Trailblazer: An ideal all-around heavy-duty sportsman's knife.

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2010
Model 28 - Woodsman: Small Drop point hunter w/ micarta handles.

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2012
Model 27 - Mini Trailblazer: 3-1/2 inch blade version of the Trailblazer.

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Randall Made Knives, founded by Bo Randall in 1938, is renowned for its handcrafted knives. Each model has its unique history, design, and purpose. Below is a guide to the first 11 models and the years they were released.

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1943
Model 1 - All Purpose Fighting Knife: The iconic Randall knife, designed for military use. This is the knife made famous by Allied combat troops in World War II and since widely used in all theaters of war.

Model 2 - Fighting Stiletto: This is a heavily made dagger or dirk. The knife is shaped along the lines of a famous British Commando knife, but is larger, stronger, and has a more comfortable grip.

Model 3 - Hunter: An ideal all-around, heavy-duty sportsman's knife. Scientifically designed for every outdoor use and our most popular sporting model.

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1945
Model 4 - Big Game and Skinner: Similar to Model #3, but with a more curved blade. This knife has been extensively used by Alaskan and Canadian guides, trappers, and sportsmen.

Model 5 - Camp and Trail Knife: This is a straight-bladed knife preferred by many for all-around camp and trail use. Also, ideal for yachtsmen and sailors for general boating purposes.

Model 6 - All-Purpose Carving Knife: A knife designed for ideal meat tableside carving.

Model 7 - Fisherman-Hunter: Similar to Model #3 except this knife is smaller and lighter. Ideal for small game, creel, or tackle box.

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1946
Model 8 - Trout and Bird Knife: A small game knife for cleaning fish and feathered game.

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1947
Model 9 - Pro-Thrower: Accurate, balanced, and scientifically designed for those desiring a practically indestructible throwing knife.

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1948
Model 10 - Salt Fisherman and Household Utility: A versatile knife for fishing and household use.

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1952
Model 11 - Alaskan Skinner: The original drop-point blade. Designed by Tommy Thompson, noted Alaskan guide, in 1952 for big-game skinning. The point is dropped below the top of the blade to prevent cutting too deeply through skins when used point first.

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Randall Made Knives, founded by Bo Randall in 1938, is renowned for its handcrafted knives. Each model has its unique history, design, and purpose. Below is a guide to models 14 - 24 and the years they were released.

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1954
Model 14 - Attack: This knife was designed to meet the demand for an almost indestructible all-purpose knife. It is especially suited for combat and survival purposes.

Model 15 - Airman: Designed especially for aircrew survival and combat purposes in cooperation with U.S. Marine Corps Equipment Board.

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1958
Model 16 - Diver's Knife: A robust knife designed for heavy-duty saltwater use.

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1960
Model 17 - Astro: Specially designed for the seven Mercury astronauts who carried them on America's first manned space flights. Astronaut Gordon Cooper did the final design and two of these historically valuable knives are on display in the Smithsonian Institution. It became available to the public in 1963.

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1963
Model 18 - Attack and Survival: A hollow-handled survival knife.

Model 19 - Bushmaster: Designed by a professional woodsman for all-around camp and big game hunting purposes. An excellent big game skinning knife.

Model 20 - Yukon Skinner: An adaptation of our Model #4 specially designed for big game purposes by Ward Gay, the famous Alaskan bush pilot.

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1966
Model 21 - Little Game: A smaller hunting knife for game preparation. Especially suited for caping and other delicate cutting duties.

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1971
Model 22 - Outdoorsman: A thinly-beveled blade for the professional outdoorsman.

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1972
Model 23 - Gamemaster: A variation of the Model #19, serving the same purposes. Developed because of popular demand for a knife with these characteristics.

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1978
Model 24 - Guardian: Specially designed in 1978 for use by police, undercover agents, and law enforcement personnel for self-protection and as a back-up weapon.

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Randall Made Knives, founded by Bo Randall in 1938, is renowned for its handcrafted knives. Each model has its unique history, design, and purpose. Below is a guide to the Bowie Knife models and the years they were released.

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1952
Model 12 - Bowie Knife (Smithsonian): A replica of the famous Bowie knife of a century ago. Similar to the type displayed in the Smithsonian Institution and used in the motion picture The Iron Mistress.

Model 12 - Bowie Knife (Confederate): Similar to the Bowie carried by Confederate troops in the Civil War.

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1953
Model 13 - Arkansas Toothpick: A replica of the historic stiletto-dagger famous in Confederate days.

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1954
Model 12 - Bowie Knife (Sportsman): The Sportsman Bowie is made to meet the demands of a heavy-duty sporting knife.

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1956
Model 12 - Bowie Knife (Raymond Thorp): Modeled after a design furnished by Raymond W. Thorp, author of The Bowie Knife. Probably the most nearly authentic Bowie style.

Model 12 - Bowie Knife (6-inch Sportsman): A smaller Bowie-type knife for sporting uses.

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1960
Model 13 - Arkansas Toothpick (6-inch version): A more compact version of the Arkansas Toothpick.

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1964
Model 12 - Bowie Knife (Big Bear): Designed on special order for a big game sportsman who planned to use it for hunting.

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1967
Model 12 - Bowie Knife (Little Bear): A more compact 6-inch version of the Big Bear Bowie.

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Note: The fixed blade knife dating guide is at the bottom of this page.
Since its inception in 1889, the Case Knife Company has been at the forefront of knife manufacturing. Collectors of Case knives have the unique opportunity to hold pieces of American history in their hands, with knives from each era of the company's production. Each knife isn't just a tool; it's a piece of art that represents a specific time in craftsmanship and industry.

Decoding the Age of a Case Knife

This article is here to sharpen your skills in dating your Case knives by looking at their tang stamps. But what exactly is a tang stamp? It's a marking found on the blade—often at the handle—that usually includes the brand name and often includes the production year of the knife. Case has been one of the few companies that consistently has used tang stamps to date their knives throughout their history, making it easier for collectors to verify and appreciate the age of their collectibles.

Use this handy tang stamp guide as a way to determining the age of your beautiful Case knives.

Who buys Case knife collections today? Finding buyers for Case knife collections can be challenging due to the aging of the market participants and the general decline in the economy. The market has seen a decline in dedicated dealers, largely due to older dealers retiring and a decreased interest among younger people to collect much of anything. This shift has led to fluctuating market values, making it more important than ever to understand who is buying and what they are looking for in a collection. That's not to say the market for Case knives is dead. It is not. But finding someone in your area to buy your entire collection lock, stock, and barrel might not be too easy.

In Closing Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the world of knife collecting, understanding how to date your Case knives is key to appreciating their worth and historical significance. Remember, each stamp, each blade has a story, and with a little knowledge, you can uncover the tales of craftsmanship that make your collection truly unique. Happy collecting!

About Our Sponsor This article is sponsored by 2nd Markets of Nashville, Tennessee. Recognized as one of the top buyers of Case knife collections in the United States, 2nd Markets offers expertise and passion for these classic collectibles. If you're looking to assess the value of your collection or find a new home for your knives, contact them. Google: 2ND MARKETS KNIFE BUYER or go to https://www.2ndmarkets.com/sell-knife-collection.aspx